Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much luck have other had working out what all the pretty letters and numbers mean on your VIN plate?

Here is what I have found.

Type - E-HCR32 prefix letter is a year code (unconfirmed)

HCR32-048282 Vehicle Identification Number - this is linked to the manufacturing date (but I haven't worked out which numbers were made on which dates)

Model spec - RC=rwd, R=type M, 32=R32, GF=gearbox 5 speed manual

Colour codes (available elsewhere in these forums)

Engine (pretty easy stuff there) D=Twin cam, E=electronic fuel inj, T=you guessed it Turbo

FS5W71C Gearbox spec, followed by RC43 rear diff spec (5sp manual, with 4.3:1 final drive)

Build factory - 5, believed to be Yokohama

Any more additions???

Would be great to have all the codes - makes identifying Skyline's by VIN plate a piece of cakePlate.jpg

hey guys i've been lookin at this a bit latley but only able to find info on the r32. Anyone got the details for the r33 model numbers ??

Mildman, how did you find out the build month ? suppose you can't track it to a day ?...hehehe..could give me car a birthday party each year !!

lenno

I've found a couple of numbers, giving Chassis Numbers versus build dates (only for R32s) - The Chassis numbers are not in perfect sequence though. I think they made a big run of R32 GTSt's, maybe retooled for a day or two then run R32 GTR's.

More info though, the E on E-HCR32 stands for Petrol model, I think N is diesel, K lpg.

As I find more I'll let you know.

Anyone else with any info feel free to pipe up and enlighten us all

Assuming your seatbelts have not been changed (don't know much about the rules/proceedures in OZ) then there should be a label/tab thingy stitched onto the seatbelt near the point where it attaches to the floor. That has the date of manufacture which almost always corresponds to the date the chassis was put together.

Additionally, I believe that there is a sticker on the back of the airbags (if you have them) that indicates date of manufacture - though, if they've ever been deployed in a crash they're likely to be newer ones...

of course, you've got to pull your steering wheel apart to get at this:rolleyes:

Yep Skylines Downunder have all the paint codes (that's why I haven't listed them....maybe I should) - but some of the other info on their site is actually wrong!

For example they state that the "E" in E-HCR32 is a date code, but I have since discovered it is a fuel code, with E for petrol...the rest is up above.

So what I am looking for, for all of us, is a confirmed list of all the codes on Skyine VIN plates, so we will all know exactly what we got out of the factory.

Keep the info coming, that you scratch up from weird Japanese sites on the web, one day we will have the answer.....and that answer will be glorious!

Nissan asked me for the "model number" of my car when I called to ask about parts. The guy then proceeded to find and quote me for parts for my car [ex -japan]. I am sure they would be able to answer these questions from their resources [online].

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...