Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Autoarts are made off kyosho moulds, just as Biante's are, which are the bathurst models....

Anyone interested in selling to me let me know.

Well the current ones aren't autoart managed to get the headlights wrong the first time out with the new mould, had to get it changed, whereas kyosho got it spot on first time out with the new mould.

Well the current ones aren't autoart managed to get the headlights wrong the first time out with the new mould, had to get it changed, whereas kyosho got it spot on first time out with the new mould.

I totally agree. AutoArt's first release of the white and gun grey R32 GT-R roadcars was way off. The lights were too narrow, the lenses were not 'orange' enough, and the front was too elongated. Kyosho pretty much knocked it right on the head first time out with their roadcars, PLUS the Kyosho's were around AUS$15 cheaper than the AutoArts too.

The later AutoArt releases (V-spec II and Nismo) had correct lenses and were generally 'tidied' up. They are much better.

Anyway, I feel I have sort of hijacked this thread a little from the original 'wanted to buy', for which I apologise.

I totally agree. AutoArt's first release of the white and gun grey R32 GT-R roadcars was way off. The lights were too narrow, the lenses were not 'orange' enough, and the front was too elongated. Kyosho pretty much knocked it right on the head first time out with their roadcars, PLUS the Kyosho's were around AUS$15 cheaper than the AutoArts too.

The later AutoArt releases (V-spec II and Nismo) had correct lenses and were generally 'tidied' up. They are much better.

Anyway, I feel I have sort of hijacked this thread a little from the original 'wanted to buy', for which I apologise.

its all good to talk about diecasts, i dont have a problem. I still am interested in buying some though.

Jada toys have some GTRs on their site, just all fully sicked so i dont know if thats what your after, by the way if anyone finds a 33 GTR with white te37s on it i want it lol

Hey buddy you may be able to help me on this one. I have been searching and searching for a long time now for a R33 GTR 1:24 scale. I have hunted on the net for hours and hours only to find 1:64 scale and nothing else. Do you have any idea where to find these at all?

Any help would be greatly apprciated.

Nathan

www.trademe.co.nz

Ususally heaps of diecast stuff on here bud. I know its over here in NZ but I dont mind if you get it sent to my place and I can send it off to you. Thats if there is something you really really want and willing to pay a little more shipping.

If people hadn't already done so, I recommend you purchase a recent (last 12 months) Kyosho 1:18 R32 GT-R in either wine red or gun grey.

My collection of diecast:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v401/ajr...kylinetable.jpg

I have the Kyosho GMG R32 GTR 1:18 scale. Its a very good copy apart from the engine angle and the radiator hose, but who am I to complain >_<.

I also have a yellow Ferrari F50 and a green Jaguar XK8 in 1:18 scale. Biante will be receiving some of my monies soon for various models, especially the R34 Z-Tune :)

Nice collection as well ajrichar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...