Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im buying a boost controller and goin to run 12psi! Just wondering if anyone would roughly know how much extra rwkw i should probably make?

Lasy dyno run i made 180kW@ wheels on standard boost R33GTST + exhaust + FMIC and pod filter

Any thought appreciated in advance!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158673-possible-power-gain/
Share on other sites

What were the afrs? And whos dyno?

Thats almost too good power for your mods. Either:

1. The dyno was reading high

2. The fuel pump is on its way out and its running lean

3. Its a complete freak :D

Do make sure you wind the boost up on the dyno as something sounds suss. Wouldn't want it leaning out and going pop. :S

Done @ BOOSTWORX last year! Even Shaun said that was awesome to get that figure and as far as i know thats all the mods that has been done to it! From memory the AFR was around 10,11 or 12 cant quite remember coz i got the printout at my work. The guy who i bought it off of said in the for sale thread that the ecu was chipped in japan but i had a look and could see no evidence of this.

Edited by SKYrine_Dan
Hey guys,

Im buying a boost controller and goin to run 12psi! Just wondering if anyone would roughly know how much extra rwkw i should probably make?

Lasy dyno run i made 180kW@ wheels on standard boost R33GTST + exhaust + FMIC and pod filter

Any thought appreciated in advance!!

what do u mean "standard boost"?

with exhaust and FMIC the car will no longer running standard boost

and as you said in the other post the ECU is chipped (higher boost?)

Edited by Maxx

When I bought my car the previous owner gave me a dyno sheet. Mods include 5Zigen catback 3 inch zorst, 7 inch muffler, K&N air filter and thats it, and it was running 6/7psi (stock boost) and doing 153kw @ the wheels, dynoed at boostworx.

Now I'm running 14psi off a Garrett GT3076R, Turbosmart boost controller, turbo back 3 inch exhaust with hiflow magnaflow cat and the same K&N filter, no missfiring plugs (iridiums) gapped at 0.7mm. How much more power over the stock figure do you think I'm making? because I tell you now its ULTRA noticable.

If your still on the stock ecu your doing damn well and may have one of those 95 freak ecu's that tend not to experience R&R.

However...

14psi through a gt3037 usually is up around 230-240rwkw.

Your probably better off pushing boost down for safety sake as 230-240rwkw is beyond the stock injectors when running stock fuel pressure.

If it's "ultra noticeable" it would be at least 20-30rwkw more - although with those mods I'd say probably more than that again.

You've probably picked up a heap in the mid range, and that's often what makes a car feel faster.

Who cares though, if you're loving the extra power, then numbers are far less significant.

I had a look at the ecu and if it was chipped id have to crack open the ecu to see wouldnt i?

The outside casing of the ecu had pink writing RB25 turbo manual, like what you would see if it was second hand. So if it was chipped im assuming it was replaced with a standard one for compliance. However i dont know what or if anything else has been done to this motor??

Maybe it has been stuffed full of goodies that i wont see until she goes pop!!! :nyaanyaa:

And by the way its only running 7, 8psi when i did the dyno run!!

Edited by SKYrine_Dan
What were the afrs? And whos dyno?

Thats almost too good power for your mods. Either:

1. The dyno was reading high

2. The fuel pump is on its way out and its running lean

3. Its a complete freak :)

Do make sure you wind the boost up on the dyno as something sounds suss. Wouldn't want it leaning out and going pop. :S

Not a freak Cubes.

You may not remember that my R33 pulled 177RWKW on the SAU dyno day last year & that was WITHOUT an FMIC & just stock boost.....

I must admit the 3-inch exhaust system transformed the top end power of my car (2 stage boost control sucks), something Whiplash has witnessed fromt the passenger seat. Will be interested to see what it pulls when those mods are done to my car :P

Edited by JazzaR33
Yes but its not all that common.

What were the other near stock r33's running? I remember around the 150-160rwkw mark. What were your afr's I don't remember? :(

Others were running those kinds of numbers yes, but none of them had a full turbo back exhaust system (should know I asked them all :huh:). I actually had a power gain from 1 dump pipe to another too (1st one cracked & you could feel the difference with the second 1) as it was a different & much better design.

As far as I know the AFR's were good, but not sure on exact readings.

Biggest problem though is that it couldn't hold that power for long due to the pissy SMIC.

Thats your HICAS computer mate.

Also I highly advise against running 14psi on your car until you get a decent FMIC mate, as ive told u, the standard intercooler is good for nothing. You will experience detontation, and may not hear it, good buy motor.

Also as you are still running stock injectors, and pump, once again, you are really risking things.

So get it on the dyno for a power run, make sure afrs are safe and no detonation.

Call me if u want any help with anythin.

speaking of weird dyno results... i had my safc2 tuned on my r33 gtst s2, it had fmic turbo back exh, 12psi boost (bleed valve) and that was about it as for power gaining.. oh and pod filter lol

214.9rwkw, dynod @ chasers in melb.. they sort of spun out aswell but i dunno... weird and everyone's said wtf to it aswell.. felt quicker but i've never driven a car over 200kw so i can't compare...

Thats your HICAS computer mate.

Also I highly advise against running 14psi on your car until you get a decent FMIC mate, as ive told u, the standard intercooler is good for nothing. You will experience detontation, and may not hear it, good buy motor.

Also as you are still running stock injectors, and pump, once again, you are really risking things.

So get it on the dyno for a power run, make sure afrs are safe and no detonation.

Call me if u want any help with anythin.

Thanks Dean man, yer I got it runnin at 0.70 Bar now (lowest it will go???)... I'll organise a dyno run this week sometime or early next week, I should get my FMIC next week too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...