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Adjust Turbotech Boost Controller

tek_01

By tek_01,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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tek_01 Proficient

tek_01

Posted
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Posted

Yeh the guy welded a nipple on there, its all set up correctly

it boosted to way over 1 bar so i adjusted it down (undid the bolt than allen key) than tightened the nut back up. but its just about on the last thread on the allen key bolt and it wont go lower than 0.9 bar

want to run about 11 psi which is roughly .7-.8 bar

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

what you can do is go down to your local spare parts shop like auto pro (which is where i got mine from) and take the spring to them. ask them for one the same size - my local auto pro had one.

cut the spring to be a little shorter and use that spring. also on the side of the spring that sits on the little ball - bend the last curl in a little bit so that the ball cannot crawl inside the spring or it will do some crazy stuff (run less boost not more so its safe)

make sure its all correct and see how it goes

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted (edited)

it must be the setup - since you changed the cooler its running more boost on the stock actuator.

Try taking the spring and the ball bearing out and then testing how much boost it runs (put the screw in 2 turns and lock it in just to seal it off) and that will give you a indication on the minimum boost you can run.

If you do that and it runs the boost you want then leave it like that untill you plan to turn the boost back up again.

These are great controllers.. i run one on my rb30det with 317 rwkw with external gate, the boost curve is straight as.. so yeah try that and see what it does then let me know.

Edited by Guilt-Toy
WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

the problem is that the turbotech boost controllers are very sensitive.. as in very small turns of the screw change the boost in big ways. mine is almost screwed out completely to hold 14psi

that and adding a FMIC changes the overall restriction in the intake. you will ifnd that there is less restriction there now and this is affecting your boost reading. just re-adjust it and you'll be fine.

cheers,

Warren

tek_01 Proficient

tek_01

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i went looking for a spring and couldnt find one the same size at bunnings or autopro cbf looking anymore.

From my understanding, when u UNSCREW the bolt... the boost goes down. when u SCREW it in, it goes up

and if this is so i cant get less than 0.9bar before the screw falls out

has anyone with a 33 and fmic run 10psi with this boost controller or minimum is about 14 which is all i can get?

Black_CSR Rising Star

Black_CSR

Posted
Posted

Well this is my Experience with it.. yeh...

When i 1st got it.. i installed it and the Boost would spike up and go over 1 bar. No Matter what i did i couldn't control the Boost level n will keep goin over 1 bar.

Then soon Later after i got my FMIC installed.. i tried using the TurboTech again n see how it goes. It started working the way it should do.. got it to run to about 10 to 11 PSI.. but it was screwed all the way in, I couldn't run higher boost after that.

Worked out well...

And now when i have the Bolt all the way in or out it would read the same boost level... 10-11 Psi..

I dunno Y.. maybe it's the way it's been setup.....

What do u reckon guyz????

-SeSaR

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
i went looking for a spring and couldnt find one the same size at bunnings or autopro cbf looking anymore.

From my understanding, when u UNSCREW the bolt... the boost goes down. when u SCREW it in, it goes up

and if this is so i cant get less than 0.9bar before the screw falls out

has anyone with a 33 and fmic run 10psi with this boost controller or minimum is about 14 which is all i can get?

I thaught when you tighten a bleed valve it actually decreases the boost your turbo makes because its not bleeding air off, which then in effect should give you the boost that its meant to make normally like 8psi or sumfin with your mods...

If you unscrew it, it bleeds air off not letting your actuator open all the way causing your turbo to make more boost... make sure its pointing the right direction aswell dude... like i think arrow towards actuator (can't exactly remember)

But yea they're tempremental and could spike every now and again and cause fluctuation in boost pressure.. if its completely closed you should be running stock boost like 8psi...

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

wtf.. first you say that that un screwing it lets you run less boost then you say if you have it closed it runs less boost.. WTF ??

If you unscrew it then it will run less boost.

I thaught when you tighten a bleed valve it actually decreases the boost your turbo makes because its not bleeding air off, which then in effect should give you the boost that its meant to make normally like 8psi or sumfin with your mods...

If you unscrew it, it bleeds air off not letting your actuator open all the way causing your turbo to make more boost... make sure its pointing the right direction aswell dude... like i think arrow towards actuator (can't exactly remember)

But yea they're tempremental and could spike every now and again and cause fluctuation in boost pressure.. if its completely closed you should be running stock boost like 8psi...

mattymagoo22 Community Regular

mattymagoo22

Posted
Posted

if the screw is falling out of the valve and it still has spring tension on it then just trim a bit off the spring, but from the sounds of things it may not be working properly make sure the spring is in the right way and isn't catching on the threads.

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
wtf.. first you say that that un screwing it lets you run less boost then you say if you have it closed it runs less boost.. WTF ??

If you unscrew it then it will run less boost.

are you reffering to what i wrote?

EDIT: Its only logical that when you unscrew it, it runs more boost, pressure is escaping causing the wastegate actuator to stay closed until it creates enough boost to actually open it... same sort of principal as ripping the hose off the wastegate.. except you'll get infinite boost so to speak

so umm... not sure if its the same with this boost controller but a bleed valve is a bleed valve... thats how they work :laugh:

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

just take it off, open it up, and make sure the ball and spring are not jammed, and seated properly. u can change the spring, or cut it to make it shorter so u get to screw in the bolt a bit more. be careful not to let the ball and spring fly out when u open it up. they do go flying.

tek_01 Proficient

tek_01

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for all your input lads, problem solved (not by me tho) CRD adjusted a few things on my car and found out the canister was not connected properly or something like that (didnt understand 100% what he meant) but yeah after adjusting boost controller, fpr, fuel cut defender

hit 204kw at 14psi

im happy and now its running as it should!

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