Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 490
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

R34NRG, the R34 GTT rotors front are not yet available, there's been a delay with RDA stock... only rear ones available if you want it, otherwise if you want whole set will have to wait...

RDA don't do front disc's for GTT???? I just bought some fronts from DBA and they are great...kinda weird that RDA dont do them... SHAME

RDA don't do front disc's for GTT???? I just bought some fronts from DBA and they are great...kinda weird that RDA dont do them... SHAME

They are having them made at the moment, it's probably no one inquiried about them before (until I started the group buy here) so they haven't made any in the past.

I've talked to RDA and it should not be that 6-12 months long to wait, but it's been more than 3 months since they started to look into manufacturing them so if it is available in the next 3 months that would be about 6 months+ in total actually.

For the time being if anyone need ASAP then DBA is the only choice, otherwise go JDM and import something from japan. There's nothing wrong buying DBA, they're good rotors too.

Got a couple of guys misses out so I have taken more orders for a small Group Buy 23 to be submitted ASAP, please pm me if you want in ASAP, probably will submit batch 23 on Monday...

- gtstcoupe for R33 rotors (payment received)

- davieb for R32 rotors (payment clearing ASAP)

hey mate,

good to hear that RDA are plannning to make the rotors for the GTT.

i will be waiting for the rotors for the GTT anyways thanks and keep up the good work!

Edited by lcy

pm replied...

By the way batch 23 was started for those who missed out batch 22.

- gtstcoupe

- davieb

Your orders have been placed and has been shipped...

Will start Batch 24 now...

slotted Front and back for R33 GTS-T postage to 3037

chenx.

I hear slotted + dimpled rotor's are weaker then just slotted is this true?

PM sent...

I think you may have heard talk on cross drilled rotors cracking, but that's not the case with RDA dimpled rotors.

Conventional cross drilled rotors are known prone to cracking under hard use e.g. track/circuit.

that is because a lot of materials are removed from the rotor.

RDA did not cross drilled the rotors but they blind drilled them, therefore the strength can be maintained.

Therefore it is called dimpled, not drilled. So they should be a lot stronger than conventional cross drilled.

But regardless what rotors you have, once you take your rotors to the track, that will void all warranties

of any parts. Regardless what material or whether it's plain or slotted,e t c.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...