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Changing R32 Gtr Oil Pump

jwah

By jwah,
in General Maintenance

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jwah Collaborator

jwah

Posted
Posted

Righto so ive got the impression that my pump isnt working. Although as far as i know the engine hasnt seized up and its not making any nocking noises yet. So im wondering has anyone changed the oil pump on there car or payed someone to do it and how much did it cost? I would probably rather myself do it because there isnt really many machenics i would trust where i live, but if its a straight forward job id pay someone to do it over myself doing it. My mate said i would have to pull the engine out... but i dunno, if i had to go to that much trouble i would just buy another engine or rebuild it anyway. Ive had a look at some diagrams of the RB26 yeah yeah it doesnt look easy. hope someone can help

Cheers

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159217-changing-r32-gtr-oil-pump/
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Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

simplified version :

Removal:

Remove Harmonic balancer and timing gear on the crank. including half moon keys.

drop the sump down about 20mm at the front

undo all bolts on the oil pump and slide forward.

Install:

new oil pump gasket,

install pump back onto crank collar,

bolt up in order specified in the workshop manual

reseal sump and bolt onto block

reinstall timing gear and belt and balancer.

prime oil pump by pouring oil into the outlet pipe on the oil filter assemply

crank engine without spark or fuel to confirm oil pressure

  • 3 months later...
BNR32t Proficient

BNR32t

Posted
Posted

I had a quote for and engine out engine in for 2 grand.

Thats just taking the engine out so i can work on it and then one i am done putting it back in.

I have been told you need the engine out for a GTR rb26 (in the r32 anyway) because of all the gear under the sump not allowing you to drop it.

Just what i have heard no practical expirence. (yet)

Lunatikk Rising Star

Lunatikk

Posted
Posted

Unfortunately with early R32 RB26's it's not as simple as just changing out the oil pump.

Early RB26's ran a much shorter drive collar on the crank snouts & the only way to rectify this is "engine out, crank out". From there you can either choose to have an extended collar fitted to your existing crank, replace it with a later model item that comes from the factory with the longer crank snout or go "all out" with a stroker bottom-end from HKS, Jun etc.

With the cost & effort involved to go this far it's a good idea to look at the viability of re-building the rest of the engine. Forged pistons are good insurance for when you get the bug & want to run more boost & whatever you do, NEVER RE-USE OLD ROD BOLTS!! Have the rods prepped, re-sized, new bolts & you should be good-to-go.

Another option worth considering is going to a dry-sump setup. A lot of people consider a dry-sump to be over-kill for anything short of a dedicated race car but with a well sorted GTR they are almost mandatory in my opinion. Not only will this take care of "oil surge" by making sure the engine has a supply of oil 100% of the time, by plumbing a scavenge stage to the back of the head it stops all the oil collecting in the head & away from the pick-up as tends to happen with the factory wet-sump.

I am about to start offering dry-sump systems initially for all RB-series engines on a "change-over" basis, meaning, where possible, we can ship out a complete kit incl sump & once you fit everything, you send your old sump back so as to minimise the amount of time your car is off the road. Also by the time you factor in the cost of a new or modified crank & new N1 or Jun oil pump (which you won't need with a dry-sump) & an extended & baffled sump etc a complete dry-sump system becomes a lot more financially viable than most people think.

For more info, prices etc on all of the above, send me a PM or call anytime

:action-smiley-069:

John

0413 615955

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