Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have now been tuning ECU’s for about 2 years and have had excellent results. I have tuned everything from completely stock cars to highly modified with larger injectors, turbos, AFM and even methanol injection. I have currently have the equipment to tune R32, Cefiro, Silvia, 180SX, Laurel, 300ZX and a few others. I can not tune R33 skylines due to the chip used.

I have all the equipment and have the ability to do map tracing and socketing ecu’s. All you have to do is pay for the dyno time and a bit to cover my costs.

You would have to allow for 2 hours dyno time and $50 for my efforts and cost of chips, sockets, travel, and time. Normally people would charge a minimum of $350 for this service.

You will get a new fuel and timing map to suit your mods, speed limiter and rev limit set to whatever you want, mass AFM sensing will be removed so no more “boost cut” and all will be checked on the dyno. You will have better power delivery and in most cases improved economy and heaps more power.

What I will want in return is a before and after printout of the dyno runs to show the performance gain achieved. Mainly so I can have some testimony from customers. That’s all I ask

Below is a couple of graphs of cars tuned by me.

100_1189.jpg

R32 skyline RB20DET Slide hiflow, Stock injectors, RB20AFM, GTR fuel pump 14psi.

dyth.jpg

R32 skyline RB20DET Slide hiflow, GTR injectors, RB20AFM, GTR pump 18psi.

If you are interested please PM me.

Thanks!

I am unable to do R33's due to the type of ROM they use. the chips are $100 each and you can only write to them once :0 so each retune needs a new chip. and I don't have a suitable programmer :)

With R32 skylines and other nissan ECU's they used an EPROM that can be erased and reused.

Cheers!

Hey Nic,

I will most likely be interested in this after I get my GTR changed to Canberra Rego, had abit of delay the last couple of weekends due to the rain. I think my car was running pretty rich hence the dirty bumper that you usually see when I drive the R32 to work.

Michael

hey mate can you remap s14 series 2 ? Also have much roughly when every thing is done ?

Hi Cambo. Yes it can be done but it gets expensive very quickly

With The S14 there are 2 different types of ECU. 1 can be tuned and the other not. You need to fit a daughter board with 2 eproms. the daughter board is $100 eproms a few $$$ and than tuning. all up including dyno time you would be looking at between$600 and that is if your ECU is the tunable one :ninja: if not you would have to hunt around for the correct ECU and would probably pay $200 for one. by that stage you are into Power FC territory.

Hey Nic,

I will most likely be interested in this after I get my GTR changed to Canberra Rego, had abit of delay the last couple of weekends due to the rain. I think my car was running pretty rich hence the dirty bumper that you usually see when I drive the R32 to work.

Michael

really? i'd just come to accept this was the price i paid for buying a white gtr. i may be interested in that case. so i'm assuming you can still work some magic with a completely stock 32gtr?

a completly stock GTR will benifit the most from a remap :) they run ultra rich from factory 10:1 at full throttle and also have a slightyl erratic timing map.

you can gain 30rwkw with just a remap and no other changes :D you will also have better fuel economy and less black crap!

My car is the one in the 2nd pick making 238rwkw (now a bit more) and i never get any buildup on my bumper. (it is black already) but if you wipe it no soot comes off:)

count me in then. just gimme a couple weeks for some funds to come in.

edit - having never chucked a car on a dyno before how much would i be looking at for dyno use and would there be an ideal dyno in canberra to use? cuz obviously i'd rather use an accurate one!

Edited by shredder667

well it looks like my turbo has finaly bit the dust. so im looking at getting it high flowed within the next 4-5 weeks. once thats done i'll finaly get you to tune mine.

no probs ;) happy to help.

checkout sliding performance turbos :D thats what have put on mine and 240rwkw later i am really happy with it. they cost around $1000 vs $2000 for a GCG hiflow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...