Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Geoff has told me that he does expect the 15 year rule to change but doesn't know when it will. Geoff is a good bloke but he is just the import broker not a car dealer. Legally the purchaser is the the one whom actually imports the car so if you bought the car now YOU would be taking the risk not Geoff.

That said I am sure Geoff would help out in any way he could.

IF the government decide to change the rule to 20 years they would not give a flying f*ck if a couple of speculators lose out.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by SKYLINEGTR

i dont know id be suss about that car seems to good to be ligit

Why would it not be legit? You can buy an early GT-R for 7k in japan, just gotta look, and it mightn't be perfect, but generally from what I've seen Km's aren't too bad, and most don't have any accident history. Double the dollars, should buy and awesome car, which that is.

Alsom the buddy club p1 VS R34 rims, maybe thats because you can sell R34 rims for more than P1's cost new-The buddy club's were like 550-600 each last I checked. R34 rims are getting up to 3500 with tyres :D

cheers,

floody

Originally posted by adam 32

i know these cars are cheap, but its painful to see people praise them so much. the running costs will outweigh the initial price eventually, and thats when you start to realise that a 15+ year old performance car isnt such a good idea

theres also talk to the law being changed to 20 years so be careful you dont buy the car and then get it stuck in japan for another 5 years!

Dude, In a year or 2, ur car will be 15 years old. So wat, u baggin ur own car now?

Originally posted by adam 32

just cos its been rebuilt recently whos to say it aint damaged? thats complete crap... maybe it reduces the chances of it being wrecked but it only takes 1 dyno run, or 1 1/4 mile to screw and engine.  

But with buying a 2nd hand car there is always that risk of the unkown the only way to avoid this problem all together is buying a new car.

You took just as much risk when you bought your skyline the only difference being is a rb20 is alot cheaper to rebuild.

adam 32: i believe your point about it being a "maintenance nightmare" are somewhat valid. infact it was one of the the reasons why i opted for the er34 instead of a bnr32.

what i would like to open for discussion, and this is by no means a personal attack, are your personal experiences with r32 gtrs and their reliability? perhaps you've owned one? your friends have had one?

fatz, being an owner, could you give us more insight as to how much has gone wrong with your bnr32 since ownership and costs associated?! if you feel uncomfortable disclosing this publicly thats understood an a PM will be fine :( its just that im going through this very situation of selling the er34 and going a bnr32...

There are lots of 32/33 GT-R owners we all know, should be reasonably clear what the maintenance costs are.

1,000,000 yen is a bit high I must admit for an '89 - way back when compliance was 'only' ~$2,500 r32 GT-R 92/93 models were going for under that.

They didn't have r34 motors in them though.

T.

not at all

radiator had a leak(new used one cost 100bux)

new clutch when it arrived(700)

new front and rear rotors(125 for the four)

brake pads times 5

new gear leaver cause it had the wrong one when it came from japan

one front cv has been replaced 250

only problem ive had is tools trying to steal it

thats about it, ive had it for 2 years and done 30k in it

mine goes to the track 2 times a month and ive never had a problem with it (oil surg is a problem but if you dont rev over 7k at the track you should be fine)

however i had a personal friend pic the car out for me in japan and i payed for a very clean one as opposed for going with the standar respray rebuild that most people do.

at least i know every scratch that is on my car was caused buy me except one that it had when it came from jap

pete

has 93k now

there r alot out there that have rust just stay away from them (scary)

yea i currently work in a compliance shop and some of the 32,s that come in and i see r shocking (i think imports in general... especially soarer)

but you get what you pay for

the motors r very strong and if you had to rebuild it then you know the car has been completely thrashed... but then again i dont think there is a gtr in the world that hasnt had a good flogging

pete

Well and good getting one for under $20k.. you might get lucky, but you might not... would you spend $20k on a car that is 15 years from some bloke just from what he said over the phone or a few pix here in Oz??? I think you'd be a lot more cautious than if you bought one only 5-10 years old..

My question is though, say you paid closer to $30k for a newer model (92 or so) which i'd be more tempted to do come next year... are you going to get much a much better example???

I mean if you spent $30k and got some equally piece of shit GTR, you'd be a lot worse off because you still gotta spend $5-$10k fixing all the problems.

They're built for flogging, but i guess there are limits.

i am brushing off comments and opinions where there are no facts involved. dont take it personally, your point was taken but its not something i dont know already.

i want to hear peoples stories of r32 gtr's that were absolute lemons or absolute gems!

silver-arrowz? judd?

hi franks,

Got my car, was a hi-grade car but i paid for it (if u get me)

As for faults there wasnt much.

First major one was complete Kenwood DVD/TV system was stolen on boat, later re-imbursed a partial value.

others included fixed up x2 CV joints, came with cross drilled breaks (which later cracked) replaced brakes x2 and rotors already.

Car was meant to come stock std. but ended up coming with Exhaust, tein HA suspension and some extra goodies.

When i got it here after a month of driving had some problems with coils, replaced them fixed. (but ended up costing me heaps$$$) as i ended up buying them new.

Now the cars fine...

Mine had a few problems but I think it was because of track abuse.

2 radiator hoses went

cracked disc rotor

worn wheel bearing

power steering leak

afm failed and caused 2 pistons and a turbo to bust (under warranty)

gasket behind turbo 2 gone

That's all. Multiple pads replaced as you can guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...