Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a manual 93 gts25t and so far ive done the basic stuff like good exhaust, air filter, EBC high boost set to .8bar, BOV (yes i noticed a difference boost kicks in faster on gearchanges) Good tein adjustable suspension. It has 17" 255's all round. If i go too hard on it and get wheelspin its just too much for the clutch and it slips and i get that burning clutch smell heh. So, i need a better clutch, keeping in mind that i wont be going for bigger turbo and all that stuff, i'll just be doing a few more minor mods so i wont be expecting any more than about 200rwkw by the time i'm finished.

Firstly what type of clutch would you guys recommend as something that can handle lotsa abuse with around that power output. If you could include rough prices or links that would be really helpful.

And while i'm at it i might as well put in a light flywheel so any prices etc on that would be great too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15954-r33-clutch-and-flywheel-upgrade/
Share on other sites

warrior_350,

I would go for something like a replacement full face (steel backed) organic heavy duty clutch (with increased clamping rate)

Both Unique Auto Sports and Just Jap sell them for around $550 I think..

This is what I will be looking at getting soon and I have the same requirements as you...

I know your in QLD but have a look (on their web sites) and order it through the site (and have your local mech. install it etc..)

Regards

Yeap! I'd go a good quailty full face clutch with a good lightened flywheel.

If you car is going to be a daily driver, then you'll wear a button clutch quickly and it will also piss you off very very quickly.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

I have a twin-plate OS Giken, and while it may be overkill for what you need, they are nice to drive and come with a lightened flywheel. See if there are any 2nd hand ones going:D

isent that an on/off clutch and a bitch to drive in traffic?

Extreme single plate ceramic button clutch with sprung centre and heavier pres plate, cost me $880 fitted. Sprung centre so wont piss you off, easy to drive for a performance clutch. Very good feel and take up, i have 200rwkw and its fine, whatsisname has the same clutch handling over 250rwkw. recommended.

isent that an on/off clutch and a bitch to drive in traffic?

Nah dude... i have one with the solid center. I think the ones with the smaller pucks are harder to drive as there is more pressure on a smaller surface area. The OS Giken plates have 4 large pucks, and i find it quite easy to drive. Peak Hour is a pain... but isn't it always?

i have a hks twin in my car. grips like mad, no play at all. moving off on a hill is a pain.

from what i've heard, nismo, os giken and ats make clutches for road use. the one i have in mine is a race clutch. i was told this after i put it in...could have gotten either one of those other 3 for the same price...

Originally posted by SLY33

Extreme single plate ceramic button clutch with sprung centre and heavier pres plate, cost me $880 fitted.  Sprung centre so wont piss you off, easy to drive for a performance clutch. Very good feel and take up, i have 200rwkw and its fine, whatsisname has the same clutch handling over 250rwkw.  recommended.

Where you can get them? thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...