Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Vs 26 Rods


Recommended Posts

has anybody have a picture of a standard rb25 rod they can post for me. reason being as i recently sold the standrd rods from my rb26 and the person has emailed me saying their mechanic is sayig they are rb25 not rb26 rods where i know for a fact they came out of my rb26. just want picture of the 2 to send to the person and compare. What visual difference is there between the 2. Anyones help would be appreciated.

Cheers, scott

here are pics of the rods that came out of my rb26

post-10986-1173361620.jpg

Edited by OFENSV
Link to comment
Share on other sites

my gtr rods had this stamped on them 20-3<>05u41-1 and im pretty sure my stock rb25det rods had stamped on them 24-4<>05u41-2. does this help? i have photos with them side by side. if you would like the pics just pm me your email address and i will send them to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my gtr rods had this stamped on them 20-3<>05u41-1 and im pretty sure my stock rb25det rods had stamped on them 24-4<>05u41-2. does this help? i have photos with them side by side. if you would like the pics just pm me your email address and i will send them to you.

is that pic you sent me all rb25 rods? i cant tell the difference between them and 26 rods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found a couple of pics but they are not the best.

rb25 rods - blurry pic

rb25 rod

Well i don't know if they help but regardless the pic you have shown is clearly of rb26 rods.

They are much thicker where the beam tapers into the big end and there is more material around the bolt holes.

If you compare the pics of the rb25 and rb26 rods you can clearly see the rb26 rod beams start to taper out wider closer to the little end than the rb25 rods. Using the protrusion on the side of the beams as a reference.

It's a shame you have to defend yourself against the word of an obviously incompetent "mechanic"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

those rods are 100% GTR rods. the reason why he would've gotten confused is that the big end bearing sizes are the same part number between the rb25 and 26 rods. but rb26 rods are definitely meatier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

here you go mate

post-13452-1174125499.jpg

thanks, i recieved an email the otherday from him saying he had taken them to another mechanic who confirmed they were RB26 rods and the guy showed him a 25 rod to compare the difference. He said the second machanic couldnt believe that the first mechanic said they were rb25 rods. Ohwel all good and sorted now:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did say "2x Magnaflows" then referred to a Varex. So to un-confuse that, my rear muffler is hot-swappable with a Varex. When I had a RB Turbo, I had the 2x Magnaflows, then went LS and though "Oh that's way too loud" and ordered a Varex. A mid muffler will definitely help a lot, even if straight through. SP Mufflers can make anything as big or as small as possible, which will help even more. Looking at my own exhaust I could make the muffler twice as long if I wanted to. Or you could go crazy and get 2x mufflers from SP and full every remaining space with muffling. In my experience closing the Varex makes the car run VERY rich (obviously). I'd say adding a muffler *will* affect things, on a technical, physics level, but I don't think you'd need a retune as the actual effect would be the car running a *tiny* bit richer due to more restriction, on a strictly physics level, but you kind of don't have any option if you want the car to make less sound.
    • I must have read 100 DIY's and watched 200 DIY Youtube videos with most people saying just grab a new cover and, well, despite my normal aproach to these things (replace it all!!) I didn't get a cover. I don't know why I didn't, I'd already ordered a bunch of bits from FCP and it would have made perfect sense to put that in the order.  Anyway, I'm not getting OEM as its just crazy money, even from the states its 900 ish delivered. So, I got an OE Elring one, same as they sell at FCP but local so I can get this fixed this week. Our X5 is waiting for a new diff so we find ourselves in a common scenario of having 2 broken BMW's on the driveway! 🤣
    • Big thing is available inputs for sensors and not having to run multiple expander boxes and software packages for different things why motec is up there. The link ecu and an aim pdm32 was a combination I looked at early on so get ecu, dash and pdm in one go. Aim logging software is pretty good and has all the tracks I will ever drive. Having logging setup with tracks already available is a big thing for myself so can click drop down and go. Thing that I keep seeing is the support what's needed and having a package that people in the know are familiar with as learning a new platform is time consuming.    Got a few boxes that arrived with bits while I was away so hopefully will fit a few sensors and make a start on the dump pipe today. Going to be interesting fitting a 3.5 inch exhaust on this and keeping it above the chassis rails. 
    • Negative Ghost Rider, the pattern is full
    • Chasing a R32 GTR dash pad, must be in good condition, no broken tabs, no holes and preferably no bubbles.   Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...