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Alrighty, well when I did my sedan a couple of years back, I did the old hammer and chisel technique. what a pain in the arse. not too mention FREAKIN time consuming!

it looks like this (ps thanks for photo shanec86)

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it breaks off in relatively small bits, and leaves a lot of work still to get rid of all the remaining deadener so you can paint over etc

so, only finding out about the dry ice method a couple of months back, I thought I'd give it a shot today on my new(er) car.

firstly, we have deadener at front and rear, and other little parts

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I went down to BOC gases, and filled up the esky. it ended up being 11kg's worth of dry ice pellets - bout $60 all up.

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when applying, gotta use gloves. so easy to burn yaself with dry ice.

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spread the dry ice pellets evenly over all the deadener.

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you will notice the dry ice starts to crack up parts of the deadener, as shown in this video - you can hear the deadener cracking up

best to leave it for a little while.

unfortunately i decided to crack open a beer while i waited, and as ya do, one beer lead to about 4 of them.

this was not good as it meant i had to really get stuck into it as the dry ice does have a limited life time before it vanishes (albeit a good 2 hours or so)

this shows the effect that the dry ice has on the deadener. just cracks up by itself in parts.

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alright. time to get cracking. i just used a little scraper to pop up the pieces of deadener, which are very cold hard and brittle by now. what you will notice here is how it comes off in big pieces (not little ones like when you just use hammer, chisel and elbow grease)

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this video shows that it becomes pretty easy to do -

was a bit of a struggle to sit on parts of the car even where there was no dry ice - the chassis was sooooo cold

look underneath the car and you'll see what i'm talking about

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getting there

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all done

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just time to vaccuum now

then clean it up using a cleaning agent and it's ready to paint!

hope this is somewhat useful, even though it's all pretty straight forward and common sense.

using the dry ice method may cost you $60 or so, but it made my life a LOT easier compared to the last time when i did it all just with chisel and hammer. that took a solid day

this method took just over 2 hours from start to finish.

keep in mind these dry ice pellets are solidified co2, so it doesnt end up melting into a puddle of water in ur car, it simply evaporates (hope that is a correct, scientifically :P)

give your local boc outlet a call to arrange picking up some dry ice for the job - https://boc.com.au/boc_sp/au/contact_us/BOC...0Gear%20Centres

best of luck boys

cheers, MARK

Nice write up

The first video sounds like popcorn! :)

Is there any risk of residual damage/weakening of metal due to the temperatures that are reached?

eg, if you accidentally drop a hammer on the floor of the car after an hour, is there any risk that the floor pan could just.... shatter?

...or could it affect fuel lines, or the fuel in the lines running under the car?

(can you tell i've never played with this stuff?) :D

Thanks for the write up. It's actually not all that common sense, I would have never thought to use that much dry ice.

I realise it's the pimp way of doing it, but do you think you could have used half the amount of dry ice and just cooled down one side of the floorpan, then moved the ice to the second half and still had enough of it?

Just wondering cos if it's a $30 technique that's even better :)

Also, did you sand it up after the cleaner pre-painting?

eg, if you accidentally drop a hammer on the floor of the car after an hour, is there any risk that the floor pan could just.... shatter?

...or could it affect fuel lines, or the fuel in the lines running under the car?

(can you tell i've never played with this stuff?) :)

No. It's brittle, not at the movies :no: I would however let it "warm up" back to room temp before starting though (not that 88's car is in any state) - just so the metal doesn't go from growing icicles to getting hot exhaust gasses pass by it.

Make sure you work with the car doors open, other wise you could suffocate from CO2 inhalation.

I wonder how quickly the sound deadening would come off if you used liquid nitrogen :ninja:

Though the sudden and uneven temperature drops, I'd be worried about the seam welds on the floorpan.

Any idea on how much weight would have been removed ?

There's approximately 16.4 kg of sound deadener on the floor of the average 31

would the reverse - shovel stuck in hot coals be effective I wonder?

GTR_R31 removed his with a heat gun..... so yeah, it works, it just isn't as clean because it goes all gooey and tacky when it gets hot, which means that you need to wash the rest off with spirits.

Is there any risk of residual damage/weakening of metal due to the temperatures that are reached?

eg, if you accidentally drop a hammer on the floor of the car after an hour, is there any risk that the floor pan could just.... shatter?

...or could it affect fuel lines, or the fuel in the lines running under the car?

(can you tell i've never played with this stuff?) :ninja:

1st question - i dont think so (hope not)

as for 2nd question - car wont be running for a few mths yet, so not too fussed bout the fuel etc

I realise it's the pimp way of doing it, but do you think you could have used half the amount of dry ice and just cooled down one side of the floorpan, then moved the ice to the second half and still had enough of it?

Just wondering cos if it's a $30 technique that's even better :)

Also, did you sand it up after the cleaner pre-painting?

No. It's brittle, not at the movies :) I would however let it "warm up" back to room temp before starting though (not that 88's car is in any state) - just so the metal doesn't go from growing icicles to getting hot exhaust gasses pass by it.

gday mate yeah you could probably get away with 5-6 kg instead of the 11kg that i used. keep in mind i took a decent break between appyling the ice and then working on removing it. but yeah i reckon maybe less next time. but then again for 60 bucks it covered the whole lot, so i wasnt too phased bout the dosh.

Any idea on how much weight would have been removed ?

yup as karina said bout 15kg or so

Make sure you work with the car doors open, other wise you could suffocate from CO2 inhalation.

yeah dude guy @ boc said make sure the workshop is well ventilated

car has no rear window. and doors and boot were wide open, so good as gold

next is to sand it

then prime it

then paint it

fun fun

cheers, MARK

  • 2 weeks later...

Top work Mark, I've done 3 cars with a heat gun and scraper and it really sucks.....pretty much a whole days' work to do.....

This looks quicker, and leaves a much better result....was going to try it last time - wish I had now!

  • 3 months later...

Ben I just spray painted straight onto mine each time, especially in black it all comes up fine....I wasn't looking for a super car interior look the spreay painted was good enough

Great writeup Mark, now do u have any tips of prepping the floor for paint just as cheaply and quickly apart from a sanding block?

g'day mate

i have sanded parts back a bit

but otherwise yeah the intention is to just spray paint it black as duncan said

hard way = heat gun? that was sucks I've done it 4 times now and can't wait to try the ice.

There was a fair bit less than 20kg in the GTR too, it is more like 10kg.

But more important than the weight loss, it *sounds* like a race car with no tar block noise of stones hitting the floor

Grab a bucket of ice and get on your bike duncan, i might do mine early next week soon as I get the friggin rear seat out.

Started priming up the engine bay today to relieve some stress.

yep i LOVE the sound when there isn't any interior or tar

i won't lie though duncan regarding the dry ice method, afterwards i still spent a few hours cleaning little bits off. maybe i didnt do it well enough with the dry ice

who knows

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