Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How long is a piece of string? It depends on how well its maintained, that will determine its longetivity. Obviously when you push things harder componets where faster but regular maintence helps keep your engine healthy.

Chris

How long is a piece of string? It depends on how well its maintained, that will determine its longetivity. Obviously when you push things harder componets where faster but regular maintence helps keep your engine healthy.

Chris

i understand what your saying with a boosted r33 but what is the average engine life span on a stocker? i know a boosted one wont last longer than 100,000ks guessing) once its boosted but im just after some opionions and some sort of figures

cheers

i understand what your saying with a boosted r33 but what is the average engine life span on a stocker? i know a boosted one wont last longer than 100,000ks guessing) once its boosted but im just after some opionions and some sort of figures

cheers

where do u get ur figures from ???

Ive known rbs to last into 300thou been modified, of course a head gasket will go etc... general maintence and wear and tear items ... it all depends how you drive it, do you flog it everywhere, do u regularly change oil, filters coolant ?

things to make the engine healthy ... keep things within limits, ensure all precautions have been taken and it will last. Drive sensibly on the roads also naturally.

i understand what your saying with a boosted r33 but what is the average engine life span on a stocker? i know a boosted one wont last longer than 100,000ks guessing) once its boosted but im just after some opionions and some sort of figures

cheers

I agree with everyone else here.. the life span of your motor is what you make it... high powered rb's with stock internals generally wont last as long as stockers... i've been told their good for around 250kw or there abouts (not sure but this is what my mechanic @ chasers told me)

someone said that a RB25DET engine can take around 300kw of power to punish it for around 10 months (from someones record of it being boosted) So I'm guessing if you take down a few tens of kw of power and say run it at 240kw like im planning before I need a rebuild, you'll have it running for around 70,000kms im predicting after I've past 128,000kms of it never being boosted in the past to the best of my knowledge and it having been serviced regularily in japan (i have all japanese papers, log books, manuals, service certificates and stamps and records etc etc etc everything, kinda rare I heard).

This is impossible. A boosted one might die before a standard one, or the standard one could also die first.

E.g. If you don't change the timing belt on the standard one and it snaps, there goes your motor.

Or, if you grab the standard one, and sit on the rev limtier doing a burnout for 30 minutes, you'll probably kill it.

someone said that a RB25DET engine can take around 300kw of power to punish it for around 10 months (from someones record of it being boosted) So I'm guessing if you take down a few tens of kw of power and say run it at 240kw like im planning before I need a rebuild, you'll have it running for around 70,000kms im predicting after I've past 128,000kms of it never being boosted in the past to the best of my knowledge and it having been serviced regularily in japan (i have all japanese papers, log books, manuals, service certificates and stamps and records etc etc etc everything, kinda rare I heard).

Freebaggins daily r33 ran for much longer than 10months making 313rwkw on its stock bottom end and low 20psi running some sorted int gate gt3040 running a larger vlt style exh. housing that had been extrude honed.

But it was tuned by Shaun, so what can I say. :ninja: All in the tuning and how responsible the owners is to ensure it DOES NOT KNOCK! Which is the beauty of the PowerFC. Knock feeback.

^^ PFC gives you a knock reading by flashing a dash light. it does not react to knock by retarding ignition. Personally, I believe an ECU with ignition retard on knock can react a hell of a lot quicker than your right foot.

This is impossible. A boosted one might die before a standard one, or the standard one could also die first.

E.g. If you don't change the timing belt on the standard one and it snaps, there goes your motor.

Or, if you grab the standard one, and sit on the rev limtier doing a burnout for 30 minutes, you'll probably kill it.

great! let's compare apples and oranges.

you argue like a woman and my old man. you transcend the bounds of logic and bring up utterly irrelevant points. is there any point in comparing a well maintained, modified motor and a neglected and abused stocker? of course not. there are way too many different factors to provide a meaningful comparison.

take two theoretically identical motors. lean on one twice as hard as the other. which is more likely to break first? is a wooden beam more likely to break if a 100kg person stands on it or a 200kg person stands on it? and no, the 100kg person is not allowed to jump up and down just because they feel like it.

apologies for the rant.. my mangina is experiencing its time of the month.

^^ PFC gives you a knock reading by flashing a dash light. it does not react to knock by retarding ignition. Personally, I believe an ECU with ignition retard on knock can react a hell of a lot quicker than your right foot.

great! let's compare apples and oranges.

you argue like a woman and my old man. you transcend the bounds of logic and bring up utterly irrelevant points. is there any point in comparing a well maintained, modified motor and a neglected and abused stocker? of course not. there are way too many different factors to provide a meaningful comparison.

take two theoretically identical motors. lean on one twice as hard as the other. which is more likely to break first? is a wooden beam more likely to break if a 100kg person stands on it or a 200kg person stands on it? and no, the 100kg person is not allowed to jump up and down just because they feel like it.

apologies for the rant.. my mangina is experiencing its time of the month.

Which shows how stupid this thread is. Of course if you have two identical things but push one harder it will break first. However the thread isn't about which will break first but about how long one will break before the other. This of course can vary with all the many variables present in the real world. This is what I believe MANWHORE was trying to emphasise.

^^ PFC gives you a knock reading by flashing a dash light. it does not react to knock by retarding ignition. Personally, I believe an ECU with ignition retard on knock can react a hell of a lot quicker than your right foot.

great! let's compare apples and oranges.

Of which the stock ecu doesn't do above 4500rpm so well great, your protected through out peak torque which is most dangerous but what about the top end?

Which aftermarket ecu does retard ignition with knock? I believe there isn't one that is 'sensibly' priced for the average street Skyline?

'Generally' a tuned motor will not knock excessively and will only knock slightly under certian condtions, you take note get it back to the tuner and iron it out. Something of which you'd have no clue its doing with a stock ecu or an ecu that gives you no feedback.

If my old man drove an rb I'm sure it would last at least 1 million km. He's had a starfire four sunbird since new, now with over 600,000 kms original motor original gearbox.

So I guess it comes down to how you drive the car. I f**ked the motor of an excellent condition vp commdore in under 10000kms, probably would have lasted ages too if didn't so many burnouts and grass skiing sessions.

Which aftermarket ecu does retard ignition with knock? I believe there isn't one that is 'sensibly' priced for the average street Skyline?

'Generally' a tuned motor will not knock excessively and will only knock slightly under certian condtions, you take note get it back to the tuner and iron it out. Something of which you'd have no clue its doing with a stock ecu or an ecu that gives you no feedback.

There are no budget ECUs that do knock retard. PFC's knock warning (check engine light) is a useful feature, so are your ears. Ultimately an ECU will be quicker to react than your foot, but if the stock ECU ignores pinging at the top end you're largely back to square one anyway.

Razorsharp, spot on the money mate.

I do not argue like an old man or woman. In fact, I was not arguing at all. I was just merely pointing out that this thread is fairly useless. As others have said how long is a piece of string.

Yeah, sure. Of course an engine that is pushed more would put out more power. Hell, even driving plays an important factor in the life of an engine. If you drive one hard, it might last half as long as one driven easy.

What i'm trying to say is that there are many factors that can determine the life of an engine. Nothing lasts forever. But if you tune it safely, mod it sensibly, drive it sensible, service it well, it'll last long ENOUGH!

PS: kinks, I wasn't saying that what you said is impossible. I was saying, it's impossible to predict the life of an engine.

While I'm at it though The candle that burns twice as bright burns less than half as long - for engines that is.

Edited by MANWHORE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...