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How long is a piece of string? It depends on how well its maintained, that will determine its longetivity. Obviously when you push things harder componets where faster but regular maintence helps keep your engine healthy.

Chris

How long is a piece of string? It depends on how well its maintained, that will determine its longetivity. Obviously when you push things harder componets where faster but regular maintence helps keep your engine healthy.

Chris

i understand what your saying with a boosted r33 but what is the average engine life span on a stocker? i know a boosted one wont last longer than 100,000ks guessing) once its boosted but im just after some opionions and some sort of figures

cheers

i understand what your saying with a boosted r33 but what is the average engine life span on a stocker? i know a boosted one wont last longer than 100,000ks guessing) once its boosted but im just after some opionions and some sort of figures

cheers

where do u get ur figures from ???

Ive known rbs to last into 300thou been modified, of course a head gasket will go etc... general maintence and wear and tear items ... it all depends how you drive it, do you flog it everywhere, do u regularly change oil, filters coolant ?

things to make the engine healthy ... keep things within limits, ensure all precautions have been taken and it will last. Drive sensibly on the roads also naturally.

i understand what your saying with a boosted r33 but what is the average engine life span on a stocker? i know a boosted one wont last longer than 100,000ks guessing) once its boosted but im just after some opionions and some sort of figures

cheers

I agree with everyone else here.. the life span of your motor is what you make it... high powered rb's with stock internals generally wont last as long as stockers... i've been told their good for around 250kw or there abouts (not sure but this is what my mechanic @ chasers told me)

someone said that a RB25DET engine can take around 300kw of power to punish it for around 10 months (from someones record of it being boosted) So I'm guessing if you take down a few tens of kw of power and say run it at 240kw like im planning before I need a rebuild, you'll have it running for around 70,000kms im predicting after I've past 128,000kms of it never being boosted in the past to the best of my knowledge and it having been serviced regularily in japan (i have all japanese papers, log books, manuals, service certificates and stamps and records etc etc etc everything, kinda rare I heard).

This is impossible. A boosted one might die before a standard one, or the standard one could also die first.

E.g. If you don't change the timing belt on the standard one and it snaps, there goes your motor.

Or, if you grab the standard one, and sit on the rev limtier doing a burnout for 30 minutes, you'll probably kill it.

someone said that a RB25DET engine can take around 300kw of power to punish it for around 10 months (from someones record of it being boosted) So I'm guessing if you take down a few tens of kw of power and say run it at 240kw like im planning before I need a rebuild, you'll have it running for around 70,000kms im predicting after I've past 128,000kms of it never being boosted in the past to the best of my knowledge and it having been serviced regularily in japan (i have all japanese papers, log books, manuals, service certificates and stamps and records etc etc etc everything, kinda rare I heard).

Freebaggins daily r33 ran for much longer than 10months making 313rwkw on its stock bottom end and low 20psi running some sorted int gate gt3040 running a larger vlt style exh. housing that had been extrude honed.

But it was tuned by Shaun, so what can I say. :ninja: All in the tuning and how responsible the owners is to ensure it DOES NOT KNOCK! Which is the beauty of the PowerFC. Knock feeback.

^^ PFC gives you a knock reading by flashing a dash light. it does not react to knock by retarding ignition. Personally, I believe an ECU with ignition retard on knock can react a hell of a lot quicker than your right foot.

This is impossible. A boosted one might die before a standard one, or the standard one could also die first.

E.g. If you don't change the timing belt on the standard one and it snaps, there goes your motor.

Or, if you grab the standard one, and sit on the rev limtier doing a burnout for 30 minutes, you'll probably kill it.

great! let's compare apples and oranges.

you argue like a woman and my old man. you transcend the bounds of logic and bring up utterly irrelevant points. is there any point in comparing a well maintained, modified motor and a neglected and abused stocker? of course not. there are way too many different factors to provide a meaningful comparison.

take two theoretically identical motors. lean on one twice as hard as the other. which is more likely to break first? is a wooden beam more likely to break if a 100kg person stands on it or a 200kg person stands on it? and no, the 100kg person is not allowed to jump up and down just because they feel like it.

apologies for the rant.. my mangina is experiencing its time of the month.

^^ PFC gives you a knock reading by flashing a dash light. it does not react to knock by retarding ignition. Personally, I believe an ECU with ignition retard on knock can react a hell of a lot quicker than your right foot.

great! let's compare apples and oranges.

you argue like a woman and my old man. you transcend the bounds of logic and bring up utterly irrelevant points. is there any point in comparing a well maintained, modified motor and a neglected and abused stocker? of course not. there are way too many different factors to provide a meaningful comparison.

take two theoretically identical motors. lean on one twice as hard as the other. which is more likely to break first? is a wooden beam more likely to break if a 100kg person stands on it or a 200kg person stands on it? and no, the 100kg person is not allowed to jump up and down just because they feel like it.

apologies for the rant.. my mangina is experiencing its time of the month.

Which shows how stupid this thread is. Of course if you have two identical things but push one harder it will break first. However the thread isn't about which will break first but about how long one will break before the other. This of course can vary with all the many variables present in the real world. This is what I believe MANWHORE was trying to emphasise.

^^ PFC gives you a knock reading by flashing a dash light. it does not react to knock by retarding ignition. Personally, I believe an ECU with ignition retard on knock can react a hell of a lot quicker than your right foot.

great! let's compare apples and oranges.

Of which the stock ecu doesn't do above 4500rpm so well great, your protected through out peak torque which is most dangerous but what about the top end?

Which aftermarket ecu does retard ignition with knock? I believe there isn't one that is 'sensibly' priced for the average street Skyline?

'Generally' a tuned motor will not knock excessively and will only knock slightly under certian condtions, you take note get it back to the tuner and iron it out. Something of which you'd have no clue its doing with a stock ecu or an ecu that gives you no feedback.

If my old man drove an rb I'm sure it would last at least 1 million km. He's had a starfire four sunbird since new, now with over 600,000 kms original motor original gearbox.

So I guess it comes down to how you drive the car. I f**ked the motor of an excellent condition vp commdore in under 10000kms, probably would have lasted ages too if didn't so many burnouts and grass skiing sessions.

Which aftermarket ecu does retard ignition with knock? I believe there isn't one that is 'sensibly' priced for the average street Skyline?

'Generally' a tuned motor will not knock excessively and will only knock slightly under certian condtions, you take note get it back to the tuner and iron it out. Something of which you'd have no clue its doing with a stock ecu or an ecu that gives you no feedback.

There are no budget ECUs that do knock retard. PFC's knock warning (check engine light) is a useful feature, so are your ears. Ultimately an ECU will be quicker to react than your foot, but if the stock ECU ignores pinging at the top end you're largely back to square one anyway.

Razorsharp, spot on the money mate.

I do not argue like an old man or woman. In fact, I was not arguing at all. I was just merely pointing out that this thread is fairly useless. As others have said how long is a piece of string.

Yeah, sure. Of course an engine that is pushed more would put out more power. Hell, even driving plays an important factor in the life of an engine. If you drive one hard, it might last half as long as one driven easy.

What i'm trying to say is that there are many factors that can determine the life of an engine. Nothing lasts forever. But if you tune it safely, mod it sensibly, drive it sensible, service it well, it'll last long ENOUGH!

PS: kinks, I wasn't saying that what you said is impossible. I was saying, it's impossible to predict the life of an engine.

While I'm at it though The candle that burns twice as bright burns less than half as long - for engines that is.

Edited by MANWHORE

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