Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

about a week ago my car start jerking between 2-3k rpm. My sister first spotted the problem, but when I drive it, nothing happens. a week later I start feeling the jerk and this time it is more consistent. The idle has become rough as well...soft idling and suddenly few poping sound like missfiring with large enough force to be felt by the driver.

My initial reaction is it's an afm problem. Whip out contact cleaner clean the afm (mesh intact, perfect condition). The jerking got better, but still there...a day later the jerking got relatively bad again.....

Also when on boost usually at 0.4-0.5bar there's be a jerk and continues going up until 0.7-0.8 bar. The boost controler I used is profac B spec II. I had a power Fc once fitted tuned to run 0.9bar. However since then the pfc is removed and the profac hasn't been set, it's been boost creeping randomly from 0.6 - 0.8 bar...

Also I need to mention that there is a loss in coolant level since I last check about 3 months ago. The level is 3/4 that of the maximum level.

so my next diagnostic is a leak in the head gasket. I don't know much about symptoms for leak gasket. All I know coolant level will drop and white smoke will puff out. So far no white smokes, just the drop in coolant level, however I think that can also be attributed to evaporation?

anyone have this problem please share

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159851-gtt-problems/
Share on other sites

hi guys,

about a week ago my car start jerking between 2-3k rpm. My sister first spotted the problem, but when I drive it, nothing happens. a week later I start feeling the jerk and this time it is more consistent. The idle has become rough as well...soft idling and suddenly few poping sound like missfiring with large enough force to be felt by the driver.

My initial reaction is it's an afm problem. Whip out contact cleaner clean the afm (mesh intact, perfect condition). The jerking got better, but still there...a day later the jerking got relatively bad again.....

Also when on boost usually at 0.4-0.5bar there's be a jerk and continues going up until 0.7-0.8 bar. The boost controler I used is profac B spec II. I had a power Fc once fitted tuned to run 0.9bar. However since then the pfc is removed and the profac hasn't been set, it's been boost creeping randomly from 0.6 - 0.8 bar...

Also I need to mention that there is a loss in coolant level since I last check about 3 months ago. The level is 3/4 that of the maximum level.

so my next diagnostic is a leak in the head gasket. I don't know much about symptoms for leak gasket. All I know coolant level will drop and white smoke will puff out. So far no white smokes, just the drop in coolant level, however I think that can also be attributed to evaporation?

I'd be changing the afm

If you had a blown head gasket it would run real rough when starting it in the morning until the water pumps out of the cylinders

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159851-gtt-problems/#findComment-2968966
Share on other sites

if its a gone head gasket, take the radiator cap off while its running and see if your getting alot of bubbles come through. other then that try a general service first, fuel filter, plugs etc. (better to do all the small things to try and fix the problem cheaply/quickly before looking at head gasket, hope its not the gasket tho! :ninja: )

CJ

Edited by -_-StRyDeR-_-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159851-gtt-problems/#findComment-2969016
Share on other sites

highly doubt its the head gasket....another way of makin sure is checkin ur oil, if its changed colour to a white/beige creamy liquid then yes, ur head gasket is gone :ninja: but i doubt ull be havin head gasket probs on a Neo :) unless uve just thrashed the tits of it or never took care of it which im sure its not the case for u :)

think maybe it is ur profac as u did mention it hasnt been tuned after removing pfc. As already advised, get some new iridium plugs, oil & filter change, then take it to a dyno and get the profac tuned accordingly.

on a dyno they should be able to tell exactly what causes this...misfires n such are usually caused due to a bad tune. Also check all ur turbo piping (intake, intercooler etc) and also make sure theres no leakage from radiator pipes. When I had the same problem with another car it turned out to be a loose intercooler pipe that was letting air out....so check everything to do with air flowing through ur car :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159851-gtt-problems/#findComment-2969056
Share on other sites

coil packs.....and any drop in coolant level should be investigated. My coolant level doesn't move at all, even in the QLD summer so you can discount evaporation. I saw an R34 the other day that was dumping coolant on my driveway, the head-gasket was gone for sure even when the car wasn't displaying the traditional white smoke etc etc there should be no reason to have those sorts of pressures in the coolant system.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159851-gtt-problems/#findComment-2969442
Share on other sites

highly doubt its the head gasket....another way of makin sure is checkin ur oil, if its changed colour to a white/beige creamy liquid then yes, ur head gasket is gone :) but i doubt ull be havin head gasket probs on a Neo :happy: unless uve just thrashed the tits of it or never took care of it which im sure its not the case for u :happy:

I mantained the car well service every 5k, but previous owned has not been that good, there was scales collected in radiator and I had to replace whole radiator. Mechanics said may be an indication of corroded head gasket....

however run the test you guys mentioned, oil's looking normal and no bubbles coming out of radiator...although I find the radiator test a bit stupid, the moment the engine is on longer than a few minutes, the coolant start spewing out....but for the few seconds it was on, no bubbles

I've got a major service in a weeks time, I'll probably find out then....given me a bit of hope here~~

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159851-gtt-problems/#findComment-2970318
Share on other sites

i dont think you should have coolant spewing out...:S not unless u have driving the car till its hot then opend the radiator cap haha. if you just turn the car on then open the cap there shouldnt be alot of pressure to be spewing the coolant out... :S

CJ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159851-gtt-problems/#findComment-2970425
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...