Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

just got done last night for a few things including noise and emission test,

i know my car will not pass for sure, this is a list of whats on it

its an r33 with an F-con V

an Evc

full exhaust from turbo

a pod and a BOV

i talked to others and they suggested

to put a stock exhaust, change the pod to stock, change the bov, leave the boost off, run it on normal unleadedand and change the spark plug to the normal NGK

any one sugest anything else or any of these will not make any difference.

am sure someone had to go through this before what did you do, any help is very much appreciated.

thankx in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159957-to-pass-an-emission-test/
Share on other sites

hey dude, i just did an emissions test for epa, i failed it, i had a turboback exhuast system, even with the silcencer i failed it cause dey wanted me to weld it on,

but if u weld it u loose power, so what i did was i changed the muffler and flange not exactly sure what the mechanic did but the made it quieter,

but ive lost power, but when i pass the test ill put my old exhaust back on, and i had a blow off valve n i failed that as well, just put ur old 1 back on

if u hav it, i think its gota be plumback, i have a pod filter that was fine, they dont look in to mods or anything, just anythign that causes pollution

I gone done for similiar things in the past too....at the end of the day, it's just not worth it... so much money into it, and in the end you have DE-MOD... but I guess, the law is the law...

In your situation, I recommend that you take off the BOV and put on a plumback.... then change the Air filter back to stock... and finally (if you have a front mounted intercooler), get some mesh and cover it up!

Good luck mate.

if u have FMIC is ok. u just change standard BOV, Stock air box, standard exhaust. one of my custermer got done and the p**s ask him to took the kick panel off n check whether is standard ecu or aftermarket. They also took pics of the EPA.

Good Luck Mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...