Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples, I am selling my Pulsar to make way for an R34 sedan. Car is located in Brisbane, and will be sold with balance of rego and RWC.

This car has many mods, but all of them culminate in ~130kW atw, so she is a quick little beastie.

It has been used on a daily basis by my wife mainly, and is in great nick.

A few key points:

- 2001 N16 Q sedan "sports" model of the range

- 1.8lt DOHC running 9psi boost, Motor done 143K easy running -- Definately not thrashed!

- Full custom install running a T25g

- Apexi SAFC2 giving the extra fuel, stock ECU doing the main work

- Front mount with all stainless pipework

- 17" Speedy Holotype R wheels

- lowered on custom Kings springs and KYB Excel G struts.

- Full 2.5" system, finishing with a SS cannon 4" tip

- All electrics (mirrors, windows)

- Tinted windows

- Pioneer MP3 H/U, with line in

- DVD Player running into 2 LCD screens (Visor and drop down mounted)

- Mod plated

+ many more!

I WILL SWAP FOR AN R33/34 SEDAN TURBO AND CASH YOUR WAY TOO!

I'm looking at $14,000 for it (ono)

Pics! Click on the thumbs, I have many more on request

Call me for info on 0422 446 113, reply or PM here as well.

th_P1000789.jpg

th_P1010437.jpg

th_P1010435.jpg

th_P1010434.jpg

th_P1000584.jpg

th_P1010712.jpg

th_P1010713.jpg

Edited by rasoo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160129-fs-2001-n16-pulsar-q-turbo/
Share on other sites

Its Anthricite (very dark browny Grey), nice colour actually.

And yes, I am after a R34 sedan, I should have pointed that out. But, I am after a GTT too, so unless its a N/A I can't refuse I will have to see.

Got some pics I can have a look at?

Edited by rasoo
Its Anthricite (very dark browny Grey), nice colour actually.

And yes, I am after a R34 sedan, I should have pointed that out. But, I am after a GTT too, so unless its a N/A I can't refuse I will have to see.

Got some pics I can have a look at?

Got some with a crappy camera here, where you located? I'm in St Lucia. My eyes are a bit dicky on colour, how's it come up when a bit dusty? Got more pics? Could you email to [email protected]

Got some with a crappy camera here, where you located? I'm in St Lucia. My eyes are a bit dicky on colour, how's it come up when a bit dusty? Got more pics? Could you email to [email protected]

I'm in Kingston mate.

Its not as bad as black/dark blue, has to be really dirty to see the dirt.

Send pics to [email protected]

What sort of pics do you want?

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...