Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all,

Just finished reading Martin Donnon's artical on braided brake lines, and he mentioned that he changed his clutch hose (small piece of rubber hose just before the slave) as well and noticed an improvement.

This got me thinking.

The clutch in mine is so damn heavy that my leg shakes if I hold it in for about 20 seconds !! And it bites pretty fast. I have no idea what type of clutch it is - it's just damn heavy and doesn't slip.

But I have noticed a few times in the past that if I hold the clutch in for a while (5+ seconds) that the take up point (friction point) seems to be different as to when I change gears normally (less than 1 second).

This is pretty frustrating when the clutch bites really fast cause you jump and hop all over the place :D

So I think this little bit of hose before the slave is expanding when i hold the clutch in.

Martin left a contact of 'Maltech' and a mobile phone number. Does anyone know these people?

I'd like to get one, but have no idea on price or even if someone has 'off the self' ones they sell...

Any ideas???

Cheers

Jayson

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16058-braided-clutch-hose/
Share on other sites

hmm...i've got a hks twin in mine and it has this problem too...

the take up is pretty high up, but sumtimes it grips pretty low, like usually when i come to a stop to park the car. 1st and rev will be much lower than usual, the take up that is...

can anyone explain why this is??

rb26dett - yepp, mine does that too... Frustrating hay...

What are the HKS twins like for peddal weight? Are they heavy or light??

I might try ringing the number that Martin quoted. See if I can make a fool out of myself if the bloke has no idea what I'm talking about :D

J

Yes, I've contacted them about braided brake lines. Just need a set of 'standard' lines so they have a template to work off (there's a thread on here somewhere asking for a set). They're going to cost about $400 for the pair.

Maltech are down in Geelong.

Originally posted by puckish

I think it's a good idea but wouldn't know what impact it would have on the feel or weight of the clutch...

Yeah I understand that it won't change the pedal weight, but I'd like to try and get the take up point more consistant.

BTW: I rang that number for Maltech, but a some lady answered the phone and had no idea what I was talking about !!!

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...