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Hey all

well ive installed GTR injectors and these resistors

click

which have the same function as a gtr resistor pack.....

got a retuned ecu, for the injectors and plugged the z32 afm in which it is all tuned for...

the pump primes, the fuel rail has fuel in it.. but she just wont spring into life..

i have checked and rechecked everything!, installed it twice because i checked all the wiring... those resistors have the same function as the gtr resistor pack...

reset the ecu.. EVERYTHING...

anyone at all got any ideas on why she wont start? been working on it for 2 days now and ill have to remove the gtr injectors and put stockies back in if it keeps on like this!

Thanks

Ed

Edited by Haysey
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Fuel + spark + cranking = start.....hence the usual questions;

Does it have spark?

Is there unburnt fuel on the spark plugs after cranking?

Is the ignition timing correct (timing light)?

>_< cheers >_<

Fuel + spark + cranking = start.....hence the usual questions;

Does it have spark?

Is there unburnt fuel on the spark plugs after cranking?

Is the ignition timing correct (timing light)?

>_< cheers >_<

changed the sparkies the other day and drove it no problem

didnt touch anything except change the injectors and add resistors....

didnt touch ignition timing from when i drove it last.....

its gotta be a problem with the injectors!

i put them on the 12v wire, the one that has one common and splits for each injector as seen in roys diy....

i need someone else here, isnt the best way to put a screwdriver to the injector and listen through that?

i really think they arent firing for some reason

I'm with SK on this one. If he doesn't know the answer, then there isn't an answer.

Stupid Q - are the fuel lines on the right way around?

i was stressing that they werent because i didnt know the fuel ran from the back of the rail to the front... but ive checked engine bay pics on my computer to how i have it today and they are fine.....

im going to wait for another set of hands and check spark and make sure the injectors are spitting..... but i cant do that alone

ok pretty sure the injectors arent going

reason being is i disconnected the fuel rail and tried to test them by myself and they kept blowing off the fuel rail so hence alot of fuel got down the injector hole......

i went to crank it and it sprung to life briefly

now if ive wired the resistors correctly and installed the injectors right why arent the injectors firing?

Product Detail

PF Part Number: 344515

Manufacturer: WELWYN

Manufacturer Part Number: WH5 68R JI.

Description:

RESISTOR, 10W 5% 68R

* Resistor element type:Wirewound Aluminium Clad

* Resistance:68R

* Power rating:10W

* Tolerance, +:5%

* Tolerance, -:5%

* Temperature, operating max:275°C

* Temperature, operating min:-55°C

* Temperature coefficient, +:50ppm/°C

* Temperature coefficient, -:50ppm/°C

* Temperature, full power rating:20°C

* Case style:Axial

* Voltage rating, AC:160V

* Centres, fixing LxW:12.5x11.3

* Depth, external:9mm

* Length / Height, external:17mm

* Resistance, insulation:10000mR

* Temperature rise:22.2°C

* Width, external:8.9mm

CEF11E did the exact same thing on his rb20 and it worked, he was the one that told me to get the resistors

I know it sounds simple, but;

Have you chucked the stock ecu back in and tried it?

With a z32 and bigger injectors on stock ecu it will still fire, possibly even run (badly). You should probably confirm that your afm wiring is correct aswell.

You've changed, injectors, ecu and afm. You haven't checked anything but injectors from what i've read.

Oh, and if it's a daughter board, check that it hasn't slipped out of the socket. Seen it happen on s13's.

I know it sounds simple, but;

Have you chucked the stock ecu back in and tried it?

With a z32 and bigger injectors on stock ecu it will still fire, possibly even run (badly). You should probably confirm that your afm wiring is correct aswell.

You've changed, injectors, ecu and afm. You haven't checked anything but injectors from what i've read.

Oh, and if it's a daughter board, check that it hasn't slipped out of the socket. Seen it happen on s13's.

ive tried all the combos, at the moment the rb20 afm and my old (not stock) ecu is back in there..

as it should run the gtr injectors but will just run dangerously lean in the top rev range...

the cradle is firmly soldered in there and the chip is simple to change no problems there...

wired up the afm according to a diy, but left the old plug on there so i could change it if i needed to.....

maybe there is too much resistance and the injectors arent getting enough power?

still waiting for a mate to come over and crank it while i miltimeter it

Ed, do you have an alarm that could be interfering with the injector pulse from the ECU ?

sounds silly, but an option to look into, as when i coverted my shit box lancer to manual i changed over to the manual ECU - but didnt work, spent forever tesing it to find the injectors not spraying - turned out the the chip runs from the ECU and this is the fuel cut - swapped to auto ECU and worked

Product Detail

PF Part Number: 344515

Manufacturer: WELWYN

Manufacturer Part Number: WH5 68R JI.

Description:

RESISTOR, 10W 5% 68R

* Resistor element type:Wirewound Aluminium Clad

* Resistance:68R

* Power rating:10W

* Tolerance, +:5%

* Tolerance, -:5%

* Temperature, operating max:275°C

* Temperature, operating min:-55°C

* Temperature coefficient, +:50ppm/°C

* Temperature coefficient, -:50ppm/°C

* Temperature, full power rating:20°C

* Case style:Axial

* Voltage rating, AC:160V

* Centres, fixing LxW:12.5x11.3

* Depth, external:9mm

* Length / Height, external:17mm

* Resistance, insulation:10000mR

* Temperature rise:22.2°C

* Width, external:8.9mm

CEF11E did the exact same thing on his rb20 and it worked, he was the one that told me to get the resistors

Resistence is meassured in Ohms, I don't see any Ohms on that spec list. They should be around 10 Ohms, best to check measure them with a multimeter.

:blink: Cheers :)

when tested with a miltimeter they read between 67-69

ive prob had it at a too high setting and there should be a decimal point in between there

a little off 10ohms, but not that far....

ive been told they are " 6 wire wound 10 watt 6.8ohm resistors"

chris, i think my alarm cuts the engine in other ways, although something to check for...

smokey should be here in 20 to help me when i pull the injectors out and see if they are firing and also test the resistance......

The GTR resistor pack measures up from memory low 5 ohms, the 280ZX and MR30 resistor packs measure up in the high 5's; up to 10ohm resistors won't cause a problem as they have been used in the past without issues.

Rip the CAS out and leave it connected, turn the ignition to the on position and spin the cas while listening for the injectors.

Spin it obviously in the same direction the motor would turn.

As others have said.. Ensure the fuel lines are the correct way around. Double check your Z32 wiring and last of all double check your ecu.

chris, i think my alarm cuts the engine in other ways, although something to check for...

smokey should be here in 20 to help me when i pull the injectors out and see if they are firing and also test the resistance......

yeah i used a spare fuel rail and injectors i had to check they were firing.

is any fuel coming out of the fuel pressure Reg when your trying to start it? also if the fuel spits at you when you take the hose off the FPR then the lines are around the worng way :wave:

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