Jump to content
SAU Community

Desperate For Any Help At All

Haysey

By Haysey,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey all

well ive installed GTR injectors and these resistors

click

which have the same function as a gtr resistor pack.....

got a retuned ecu, for the injectors and plugged the z32 afm in which it is all tuned for...

the pump primes, the fuel rail has fuel in it.. but she just wont spring into life..

i have checked and rechecked everything!, installed it twice because i checked all the wiring... those resistors have the same function as the gtr resistor pack...

reset the ecu.. EVERYTHING...

anyone at all got any ideas on why she wont start? been working on it for 2 days now and ill have to remove the gtr injectors and put stockies back in if it keeps on like this!

Thanks

Ed

Edited by Haysey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160663-desperate-for-any-help-at-all/
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Fuel + spark + cranking = start.....hence the usual questions;

Does it have spark?

Is there unburnt fuel on the spark plugs after cranking?

Is the ignition timing correct (timing light)?

>_< cheers >_<

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Fuel + spark + cranking = start.....hence the usual questions;

Does it have spark?

Is there unburnt fuel on the spark plugs after cranking?

Is the ignition timing correct (timing light)?

>_< cheers >_<

changed the sparkies the other day and drove it no problem

didnt touch anything except change the injectors and add resistors....

didnt touch ignition timing from when i drove it last.....

its gotta be a problem with the injectors!

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i put them on the 12v wire, the one that has one common and splits for each injector as seen in roys diy....

i need someone else here, isnt the best way to put a screwdriver to the injector and listen through that?

i really think they arent firing for some reason

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm with SK on this one. If he doesn't know the answer, then there isn't an answer.

Stupid Q - are the fuel lines on the right way around?

i was stressing that they werent because i didnt know the fuel ran from the back of the rail to the front... but ive checked engine bay pics on my computer to how i have it today and they are fine.....

im going to wait for another set of hands and check spark and make sure the injectors are spitting..... but i cant do that alone

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok pretty sure the injectors arent going

reason being is i disconnected the fuel rail and tried to test them by myself and they kept blowing off the fuel rail so hence alot of fuel got down the injector hole......

i went to crank it and it sprung to life briefly

now if ive wired the resistors correctly and installed the injectors right why arent the injectors firing?

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Product Detail

PF Part Number: 344515

Manufacturer: WELWYN

Manufacturer Part Number: WH5 68R JI.

Description:

RESISTOR, 10W 5% 68R

* Resistor element type:Wirewound Aluminium Clad

* Resistance:68R

* Power rating:10W

* Tolerance, +:5%

* Tolerance, -:5%

* Temperature, operating max:275°C

* Temperature, operating min:-55°C

* Temperature coefficient, +:50ppm/°C

* Temperature coefficient, -:50ppm/°C

* Temperature, full power rating:20°C

* Case style:Axial

* Voltage rating, AC:160V

* Centres, fixing LxW:12.5x11.3

* Depth, external:9mm

* Length / Height, external:17mm

* Resistance, insulation:10000mR

* Temperature rise:22.2°C

* Width, external:8.9mm

CEF11E did the exact same thing on his rb20 and it worked, he was the one that told me to get the resistors

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

I know it sounds simple, but;

Have you chucked the stock ecu back in and tried it?

With a z32 and bigger injectors on stock ecu it will still fire, possibly even run (badly). You should probably confirm that your afm wiring is correct aswell.

You've changed, injectors, ecu and afm. You haven't checked anything but injectors from what i've read.

Oh, and if it's a daughter board, check that it hasn't slipped out of the socket. Seen it happen on s13's.

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I know it sounds simple, but;

Have you chucked the stock ecu back in and tried it?

With a z32 and bigger injectors on stock ecu it will still fire, possibly even run (badly). You should probably confirm that your afm wiring is correct aswell.

You've changed, injectors, ecu and afm. You haven't checked anything but injectors from what i've read.

Oh, and if it's a daughter board, check that it hasn't slipped out of the socket. Seen it happen on s13's.

ive tried all the combos, at the moment the rb20 afm and my old (not stock) ecu is back in there..

as it should run the gtr injectors but will just run dangerously lean in the top rev range...

the cradle is firmly soldered in there and the chip is simple to change no problems there...

wired up the afm according to a diy, but left the old plug on there so i could change it if i needed to.....

maybe there is too much resistance and the injectors arent getting enough power?

still waiting for a mate to come over and crank it while i miltimeter it

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

Ed, do you have an alarm that could be interfering with the injector pulse from the ECU ?

sounds silly, but an option to look into, as when i coverted my shit box lancer to manual i changed over to the manual ECU - but didnt work, spent forever tesing it to find the injectors not spraying - turned out the the chip runs from the ECU and this is the fuel cut - swapped to auto ECU and worked

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Product Detail

PF Part Number: 344515

Manufacturer: WELWYN

Manufacturer Part Number: WH5 68R JI.

Description:

RESISTOR, 10W 5% 68R

* Resistor element type:Wirewound Aluminium Clad

* Resistance:68R

* Power rating:10W

* Tolerance, +:5%

* Tolerance, -:5%

* Temperature, operating max:275°C

* Temperature, operating min:-55°C

* Temperature coefficient, +:50ppm/°C

* Temperature coefficient, -:50ppm/°C

* Temperature, full power rating:20°C

* Case style:Axial

* Voltage rating, AC:160V

* Centres, fixing LxW:12.5x11.3

* Depth, external:9mm

* Length / Height, external:17mm

* Resistance, insulation:10000mR

* Temperature rise:22.2°C

* Width, external:8.9mm

CEF11E did the exact same thing on his rb20 and it worked, he was the one that told me to get the resistors

Resistence is meassured in Ohms, I don't see any Ohms on that spec list. They should be around 10 Ohms, best to check measure them with a multimeter.

:blink: Cheers :)

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

when tested with a miltimeter they read between 67-69

ive prob had it at a too high setting and there should be a decimal point in between there

a little off 10ohms, but not that far....

ive been told they are " 6 wire wound 10 watt 6.8ohm resistors"

chris, i think my alarm cuts the engine in other ways, although something to check for...

smokey should be here in 20 to help me when i pull the injectors out and see if they are firing and also test the resistance......

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The GTR resistor pack measures up from memory low 5 ohms, the 280ZX and MR30 resistor packs measure up in the high 5's; up to 10ohm resistors won't cause a problem as they have been used in the past without issues.

Rip the CAS out and leave it connected, turn the ignition to the on position and spin the cas while listening for the injectors.

Spin it obviously in the same direction the motor would turn.

As others have said.. Ensure the fuel lines are the correct way around. Double check your Z32 wiring and last of all double check your ecu.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
chris, i think my alarm cuts the engine in other ways, although something to check for...

smokey should be here in 20 to help me when i pull the injectors out and see if they are firing and also test the resistance......

yeah i used a spare fuel rail and injectors i had to check they were firing.

is any fuel coming out of the fuel pressure Reg when your trying to start it? also if the fuel spits at you when you take the hose off the FPR then the lines are around the worng way :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...