Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi i own a R33 gtst and am trying to locate a power fc to suit but am finding it extremely difficult to find one as they are a discontinued line. Now my question is are there any other ecu options out that are comparable to a power fc ? If so what are they?

Many thanks

Peter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161069-alternative-to-power-fc/
Share on other sites

From hot 4's info (I was going interstate and had to buy something to read .. Dont flame me :D) Wolf seems to be the best features for $$$ dont hold that one to me .. But they said it was a touch better than a power fc .. Big call I know .. but i read it ..

Just read that the wolf is $2200 with hand controller .. Thats a motza!

Edited by DECIM8
Hi i own a R33 gtst and am trying to locate a power fc to suit but am finding it extremely difficult to find one as they are a discontinued line. Now my question is are there any other ecu options out that are comparable to a power fc ? If so what are they?

Many thanks

Peter

hope you find your PFC they are good ecu..

i found a second hand pfc not long ago for $1300 but i did some calculations and it wasnt worth it. If i got the pfc i would of also had to buy a z32 afm & splitfire coil packs. For that much money i can buy a microtech L12 with bosch coil packs, remote screen & wiring loom. Advantage to the microtech that its brand new & its also less than rrp. The pfc was more than rrp.

I knew a guy with a wolf system. He may of just been unlucky but he said it was the biggest piece of shit ever.

Edited by r_speedfreak_r

There is already an "alternatives" thread.

See link below, there is 6 pages or so to give you a great idea.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...;hl=alternative

Im locking this as its already been covered a few times.

Cheers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...