Jump to content
SAU Community

Indicator Resistance

ak_stylez

By ak_stylez,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

ak_stylez Community Regular

ak_stylez

Posted
Posted

Hey people,

Loved skylines for a very long time, and now I'm finally the proud owner of a black r33 gtst.

I've got a gtr front bar (fake) on it. The original indicators/foggies are gone, and the cable to them has been cut. I got some custom indicators done which look great, but they were LEDs so the auto-elec put in some sort of regulator to keep the clicking at normal pace (it was spastically fast due to missing lights - LEDs dont draw current so they didn't return it to normal).

everythings great, except for one thing. Theres a delay from when i push the indicator to when it starts clicking. its about 1 second. now this doesn't seem much, but when i'm weaving in and out of traffic it feels like an eternity, and is potentially quite dangerous.

I'm guessing the delay is from the capacitors in the installed regulator. So i wanna get normal incandescent light globes for my flashers to replace the LED in the flasher and remove that regulator. only problem is, unless i get globes with the same resistance as the original skyline indicators, the timing won't be right. is this correct?

so to my question, has anyone had to change globes for their front indicators on a series 2 r33? would your normal globes from autobarn/supercheap be right? or were the skyline globes extra special? reason i'm asking is the s2 lights look pretty big so they might have had a bigger globe with different resistance etc.

thanks for any input!

p.s. i know some of u might be thinkin "what a retard! they're just indicators!!" but i'm REALLY fussy with this sorta stuff. unless its perfect it will drive me CRAZY.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161371-indicator-resistance/
Share on other sites
lanky71 Veteran

lanky71

Posted
Posted
p.s. i know some of u might be thinkin "what a retard! they're just indicators!!" but i'm REALLY fussy with this sorta stuff. unless its perfect it will drive me CRAZY.

I don't think u're crazy u are actually quite sensible cause like u say weaving in and out of traffic or just having to change lanes quickly with that sort of delay could cause accidents and chaos.

sik14 Enthusiast

sik14

Posted
Posted

hey dude im an auto electrician. just replace your flasher unit with an electronic bosch 1 by memory their like $15. they dont rely on load so you can get rid of the resistors that sparky put in. used em on heaps of cars with l.e.d indicators and they work great. and take 2 seconds to change. they are only 2 pin (not 3 pin like the standard 1) it doesnt need the 3rd wire its just an earth.

and other questions just pm me?

ak_stylez Community Regular

ak_stylez

Posted
  • Author
Posted

that's what's in there now. only its not a bosche, its a "navar" (i think that's the spelling).

whether i put in led globes, or filament globes the clicking pace stays the same, and there's still a short delay from when i push the indicator stalk to when it starts flashing.

  • 1 month later...
Restless 33 Proficient

Restless 33

Posted
Posted

sorry to dig up an old thread... i have the same problem except i got a new front bar and have new indicators to go with it and they are flashng to fast... i also found that if the earth and positive are touching it makes all 6 indicators go off when you use one direction.

i can get them to work normally eg. down each side like they should but they are flashing way to fast... any ideas. also where is this flasher unit and any idea hat the part number is for the boche unit

thank, Mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Iron Mike
      R34 GTR parts garage clean out

      By Iron Mike · Posted

      Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • waxracing
      Power steering pump r32

      By waxracing · Posted

      Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • TurboTapin
      Power steering pump r32

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...