Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol yea flashing greenish color. but in the manual it says that relates to error codes?!?!?!
my knock sensor doesnt read, but this is only on starting, will it only register once engine running?

It will only show actual real time knocking, so if it aint knocking it wont show.

and my water temp C NS_WT-1 reads about 70-80c, and when i switched the jumper it reads -16 or something, which is correct?

70-80 whilst running or stationary and cold? if it says 70-80 when cold then it is wired wrong.

  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I want to clear some things once and for all.

Some guys running EMU on sr20det experience some rich idle a/frs, fuel cuts.

Some guy on emanage forums, said that moving the jumper 8 from 1-2(default greddy) to 2-3 cured his problem.

Its the jumper for the ignition output signal. Greddy Default is 5v(jumper set to 1-2) and jumper set to 2-3 makes it 12v.

So can someone pls confirm: what configuration should rb20/rb25/rb25neo/rb26 guys run ?

Reading the EMU faq I thought rb2neo guys benefit from going to 12v ignition output signal.

Thanks in advance!

06.jpg

07.jpg

09.jpg

Edited by robots

^^^^^ sorry in my first post in this forum i mentioned that all cars should be run (jp 8 2-3 ) 12v.... sorry i did not mention it :ninja: i assumed you had already done that.

if you want more info see first post.

So I should set the jumper 8 to 2-3 and it will help you reckon ? ))) Haha. I feel kinda happy again ))

Thanks!

Yeah definately, jumper 8 set at 2-3 bypasses an ignition circuit inside the emanage.

Even though it is 5v / 12v jumper it cannot jump the 5v signal to 12v.... whatever voltage goes in can only ever come out the same voltage. The issue arises with some cars that have "dirty" signals, these signals are further modified by the 5v circuit and can play up causing misfires and so forth.

I set ALL emanage ultimates up at 2-3 (JP8) and work from there, i have NEVER had an ignitor failure in over 40-60 installs. (this info is based on a conversation i had with ichida-san who designed the EMU)

hey guys. just wanted to know what to set my knock sensor to.,

uras, or whover.

how do i set it up.

atm the jumper for it is set to 1-2. and in parameters im using the air intake temp/knock sensor 2 with it set to resonate and 7.02.

is this cool??

^^^^^^^ no one knows?

also i REALLY NEED a good tuner of a emu in the sunshine coast/brissie area.

can anyone recommend anyone, and how long and much will it be?

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

My EMU was installed & tuned by a workshop, but the guy who did the work is away at the moment.

1st time I connected my laptop to the EMU, I spotted a huge error log. Any ideas?

my car is an R34 GTT (manual).

[2008/01/26-15:19:09]------------------------

65504:0443-0006[incorrect 3CH ignition input signal]

65505:0444-0003[incorrect 4CH ignition input signal]

65506:0445-0001[incorrect 5CH ignition input signal]

65507:0446-0002[incorrect 6CH ignition input signal]

65508:0441-0004[incorrect 1CH ignition input signal]

65509:0442-0005[incorrect 2CH ignition input signal]

65510:0443-0006[incorrect 3CH ignition input signal]

65511:0444-0003[incorrect 4CH ignition input signal]

65512:0445-0001[incorrect 5CH ignition input signal]

65513:0446-0002[incorrect 6CH ignition input signal]

65514:0441-0004[incorrect 1CH ignition input signal]

65515:0442-0005[incorrect 2CH ignition input signal]

65516:0443-0006[incorrect 3CH ignition input signal]

65517:0444-0003[incorrect 4CH ignition input signal]

65518:0445-0001[incorrect 5CH ignition input signal]

65519:0446-0002[incorrect 6CH ignition input signal]

I had a look at some of the wiring today (before I ran out of daylight)

The Ign Input Ch1, 2 and 3 looked to be wired correctly (according to the EMU wiring instructions)

I did find about 6 wires that weren't connected, but they didn't seem to be related to the ignition.

I look some photos so I could go back and double check... still scratching my head!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...