Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cant put the cam and timing covers on because of the VCT, the cover has a large bulge to get over it..

yeah RB25DE did come out in late model r32's, many people have told me they have got away without the engineers because of this.. the engine number does not say DET on it so thats what has made me think i might get away with it... engineers is only $450 depending weather or not the breaks need to be changed.. wich i dont think because i have a type m.

but.... would it be worthwhile taking the VCT away and running ajustable cam gear on both the intake and exhaust?? then i can put the rb20 covers on... will i get any loss out of doing this?? or would the car run better anyway?

i have heard that rb20 inlet cam needs to be put in to do this, is this true? if so is it an easy process, straight swap??

thanks leigh.

Edited by lwboosted

take off the coilpack cover and dont run custom cooler piping ie; keep the usual fmic piping that goes infront of the cam cover(this will 'hide' the vct buldge and wont make it so obvious that your cam cover nolonger says rb20.. wtf??. Cops wont know the difference unless they check your engine numbers, ive been pulled and they havent blinked twice, also went to mcleod to get my epa removed and they said nothing about it (granted they dont care about that stuff, its a vicroads thing). That being said if you get pulled by tmu you will get done. You can ring vic roads and say you blew your engine, give them your rb25 engine number and they will send you out a new rego sticker etc, again with this you run the risk of getting a operator who knows what they are doing and with your nice new rego sticker will come a roadworthy check and an epa notice. Engineers certsdont mean anything to the police, even with it they can still send you to the epa at their disgression. If you want pm me and ill tell you what i did - it worked aswell :D (all legal ofcourse!)

cant put the cam and timing covers on because of the VCT, the cover has a large bulge to get over it..

yeah RB25DE did come out in late model r32's, many people have told me they have got away without the engineers because of this.. the engine number does not say DET on it so thats what has made me think i might get away with it... engineers is only $450 depending weather or not the breaks need to be changed.. wich i dont think because i have a type m.

but.... would it be worthwhile taking the VCT away and running ajustable cam gear on both the intake and exhaust?? then i can put the rb20 covers on... will i get any loss out of doing this?? or would the car run better anyway?

i have heard that rb20 inlet cam needs to be put in to do this, is this true? if so is it an easy process, straight swap??

thanks leigh.

The R32 RB25DE's were non-vct so no lump. Externally look wise they look identical to an rb20. EVERYTHING (bolt on) apart from the inlet manifold (note there is 2 parts to the inlet, the plenum and the inlet manifold/runers) are interchangable with the rb20de/det motor.

IF you were to use the R33 VCT RB25 head and removed the vct simply throw an adjustable cam gear on it and either set it up with the same centerline as the r32 rb20det cam or what ever makes the sort of power you are after.

Here in SA dropping an R33 RB25DET or RB26DETT motor in an R32 GTST requires the R33 GTST/R32 GTR front callipers, stock ecu, turbo etc.

i thought the bolt pattern was different and the ajustable camgear does not fit.. cant remember exactly but something to do with 4 bolts or something.. so you can put a rb20 inlet cam in it and then you can bolt the ajustable cam gear on..i cant remember.. i will pull it off the rb25 on the weekend and have a look..

the reason being for all this is i bought a rb25 that was in a front accident.. it basically came with everything except whats on the front of the engine.. so all pullies, cam covers water pump.. all smashed even the backets on the block that hold the water pump on.. but i do alot of fabrication work so i can fix all that... i want to be able to use everything from the rb20 to replace what is missing which from alot of searching i am 90% sure i have everything i need.. i dont care about the engine number...

a couple of questions regarding this.. the rb25 is a series 1

- using rb20 coilpacks.. and the little box on top of the coilpack cover?

- the sensor thingy that bolts to the outside of the cam cover on the exhaust side of the cam..???

- alternator, powersteering pump, aircon stuff, etc i know this bolts on..

- the main drive for the belts that goes on the crank.. along with harmolic balencer.. etc.. ????

- upper and lower cam covers..??

- maybe the sump if i cant fix it...

the only thing that is ok on the front of the engine is the oil pump and the cam gears.. lol. everything else i need to replace salvaging as much as i can from the rb20 i already have...

i know this sounds like alot but everything else is with the engine.. i only paid $500 for it so i think it was worthwhile and i dont mind a little project..

any help would be much apreciated..

i think i have most of the loom so i am still summing up weather or not to go for a rb25 computer but i dont have it, or to do this and get the rb20 computer remapped.. i have r31Nismoids old gt30r waiting to go on it along with all other goodies... i am hoping for around 300rwkw...

Edited by lwboosted

I assume you are asking what you can use?

- using rb20 coilpacks.. and the little box on top of the coilpack cover?

coilpacks = yes.. ignitor box = no

- the sensor thingy that bolts to the outside of the cam cover on the exhaust side of the cam..???

I assume you mean crank angle sensor = no

- alternator, powersteering pump, aircon stuff, etc i know this bolts on..

yes, yes it does :(

- the main drive for the belts that goes on the crank.. along with harmolic balencer.. etc.. ????

Don't you mean the harmonic balancer? not sure, don't think so..

- upper and lower cam covers..??

no.. rb25 has the extra lobe coming out for the VCT.. rb20 top cover is flat, therefore won't fit from what I remember. Bottom, think it's not tall enough.

- maybe the sump if i cant fix it...

pretty sure sump is different too, never tried swapping that though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...