Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cant put the cam and timing covers on because of the VCT, the cover has a large bulge to get over it..

yeah RB25DE did come out in late model r32's, many people have told me they have got away without the engineers because of this.. the engine number does not say DET on it so thats what has made me think i might get away with it... engineers is only $450 depending weather or not the breaks need to be changed.. wich i dont think because i have a type m.

but.... would it be worthwhile taking the VCT away and running ajustable cam gear on both the intake and exhaust?? then i can put the rb20 covers on... will i get any loss out of doing this?? or would the car run better anyway?

i have heard that rb20 inlet cam needs to be put in to do this, is this true? if so is it an easy process, straight swap??

thanks leigh.

Edited by lwboosted

take off the coilpack cover and dont run custom cooler piping ie; keep the usual fmic piping that goes infront of the cam cover(this will 'hide' the vct buldge and wont make it so obvious that your cam cover nolonger says rb20.. wtf??. Cops wont know the difference unless they check your engine numbers, ive been pulled and they havent blinked twice, also went to mcleod to get my epa removed and they said nothing about it (granted they dont care about that stuff, its a vicroads thing). That being said if you get pulled by tmu you will get done. You can ring vic roads and say you blew your engine, give them your rb25 engine number and they will send you out a new rego sticker etc, again with this you run the risk of getting a operator who knows what they are doing and with your nice new rego sticker will come a roadworthy check and an epa notice. Engineers certsdont mean anything to the police, even with it they can still send you to the epa at their disgression. If you want pm me and ill tell you what i did - it worked aswell :D (all legal ofcourse!)

cant put the cam and timing covers on because of the VCT, the cover has a large bulge to get over it..

yeah RB25DE did come out in late model r32's, many people have told me they have got away without the engineers because of this.. the engine number does not say DET on it so thats what has made me think i might get away with it... engineers is only $450 depending weather or not the breaks need to be changed.. wich i dont think because i have a type m.

but.... would it be worthwhile taking the VCT away and running ajustable cam gear on both the intake and exhaust?? then i can put the rb20 covers on... will i get any loss out of doing this?? or would the car run better anyway?

i have heard that rb20 inlet cam needs to be put in to do this, is this true? if so is it an easy process, straight swap??

thanks leigh.

The R32 RB25DE's were non-vct so no lump. Externally look wise they look identical to an rb20. EVERYTHING (bolt on) apart from the inlet manifold (note there is 2 parts to the inlet, the plenum and the inlet manifold/runers) are interchangable with the rb20de/det motor.

IF you were to use the R33 VCT RB25 head and removed the vct simply throw an adjustable cam gear on it and either set it up with the same centerline as the r32 rb20det cam or what ever makes the sort of power you are after.

Here in SA dropping an R33 RB25DET or RB26DETT motor in an R32 GTST requires the R33 GTST/R32 GTR front callipers, stock ecu, turbo etc.

i thought the bolt pattern was different and the ajustable camgear does not fit.. cant remember exactly but something to do with 4 bolts or something.. so you can put a rb20 inlet cam in it and then you can bolt the ajustable cam gear on..i cant remember.. i will pull it off the rb25 on the weekend and have a look..

the reason being for all this is i bought a rb25 that was in a front accident.. it basically came with everything except whats on the front of the engine.. so all pullies, cam covers water pump.. all smashed even the backets on the block that hold the water pump on.. but i do alot of fabrication work so i can fix all that... i want to be able to use everything from the rb20 to replace what is missing which from alot of searching i am 90% sure i have everything i need.. i dont care about the engine number...

a couple of questions regarding this.. the rb25 is a series 1

- using rb20 coilpacks.. and the little box on top of the coilpack cover?

- the sensor thingy that bolts to the outside of the cam cover on the exhaust side of the cam..???

- alternator, powersteering pump, aircon stuff, etc i know this bolts on..

- the main drive for the belts that goes on the crank.. along with harmolic balencer.. etc.. ????

- upper and lower cam covers..??

- maybe the sump if i cant fix it...

the only thing that is ok on the front of the engine is the oil pump and the cam gears.. lol. everything else i need to replace salvaging as much as i can from the rb20 i already have...

i know this sounds like alot but everything else is with the engine.. i only paid $500 for it so i think it was worthwhile and i dont mind a little project..

any help would be much apreciated..

i think i have most of the loom so i am still summing up weather or not to go for a rb25 computer but i dont have it, or to do this and get the rb20 computer remapped.. i have r31Nismoids old gt30r waiting to go on it along with all other goodies... i am hoping for around 300rwkw...

Edited by lwboosted

I assume you are asking what you can use?

- using rb20 coilpacks.. and the little box on top of the coilpack cover?

coilpacks = yes.. ignitor box = no

- the sensor thingy that bolts to the outside of the cam cover on the exhaust side of the cam..???

I assume you mean crank angle sensor = no

- alternator, powersteering pump, aircon stuff, etc i know this bolts on..

yes, yes it does :(

- the main drive for the belts that goes on the crank.. along with harmolic balencer.. etc.. ????

Don't you mean the harmonic balancer? not sure, don't think so..

- upper and lower cam covers..??

no.. rb25 has the extra lobe coming out for the VCT.. rb20 top cover is flat, therefore won't fit from what I remember. Bottom, think it's not tall enough.

- maybe the sump if i cant fix it...

pretty sure sump is different too, never tried swapping that though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...