Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm selling my sub box, amp and sub unit I made for my Stagea.

It fits in perfectly between the suspension towers, is the same height too so you can still use the cargo barrier. It's short enough to not get in the way of the tie down points, so you can still use the cargo net at the halfway point of the boot. I've covered it in carpet similar to that of the stagea carpet. The back of the sub box is open as I used the seats as the rear of the box.

The subs are 10" Pioneer open air subs, 4 ohm 650W max. They come with protective covers as well.

Amp is an Alpine V12 4/3/2 + Subwoofer drive power amplifier. Basically it can handle 4x speakers and a sub or 2x speakers and 2x subs and a few other combinations. I have the users guide as well. Model code is MRV-F357

I'm willing to sell them all separately if someone just wants a sub box for a Stagea to suit 10" subs or some cheap subs and an amp.

Amp: $250

Subs (2x): $100

Box: $50

Together as one: $350

Attached is a photo fitted to the back of my Stagea. If anyone wants photos of the unit as a whole let me know

Cheers

post-4352-1175167207.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162415-stagea-custom-made-sub-box-sold/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...