Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how many kw/psi were you running ?

92% is fine. You will find even in cold weather it won't alter that much, maybe 93% but never near 100%. Ive ran close to 98% and constitantly monitored it. Thats living on the danger side though with one eyed glued on the PFC. I ran a 2535 turbo with a adj. fuel pressure regulator.
This would point to other problems not related to injector size or duty cycle.

say u were running 100% duty cycle, that means you hold the injector open like a garden hose (no pulsing-no break), so logically this would put extra load on injectors/wiring etc so this problem can be related to injector size/duty cycle, bottom line is that running them at above 85% is not a recommended thing for a number of reasons.

Edited by drf76
say u were running 100% duty cycle, that means you hold the injector open like a garden hose (no pulsing-no break), so logically this would put extra load on injectors/wiring etc so this problem can be related to injector size/duty cycle, bottom line is that running them at above 85% is not a recommended thing for a number of reasons.

Sorry, peak current throught the wiring is initial pulse, called startup current, so 100% duty cycle would actually be putting less strain on the wiring than 80%, The current draw from injectors is never going to damage wiring, as car injector wiring is usually 10A wire, and injectors draw far less than that, the only way there can be a problem is using low impedence injectors with an ecu designed for high impedence/low current injectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...