Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at buying a house so i need get a a more tame car :) for a while

This GTR won the SAU best R33 GTR award 2 years ago...

It currently has about 84,000km and about 20k on the engine...

It currently makes about 300kw atw on 18psi this car has virtually no lag its very very responsive...

I use it as a daily driver but its built to be a track weapon.

The car has been serviced by UAS...

CP Forged Pistons (20 thou oversized)

Carrillo Forged Conrods

SPS CARR Conrod Bolts

Tomei Cam Sprockets

Tomei 1.2mm Head Gasket

Tomei Gasket Kit

Tomei Oil Gallery Restrictor

ARP Head Studs

Sard 660cc Injectors

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

NISMO Fuel Regulator

Z32 Air Flow Meters

Trust Sump Extension

OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch

NISMO Timing Belt

N1 Water Pump

JUN Oil Pump

NISMO Engine Mounts

NISMO Gearbox Mount

Trust Clear Cam Gear Cover

Cusco Master Cylinder Brace (painted black)

RacePace Custom Oil/Air Seperator - Mark II Design

APEXi Pod Filters

APEXi Power FC Pro

Turbosmart eBoost

Tomie 260 poncam's (needs to be installed)

HKS GT-SS Turbos

Port matched Exhaust Manifolds

HKS Dump Pipes

HKS Front Pipes

3" Cat

APEXi GT-Spec Cat-Back Exhaust

18x9" 5Zigen Wheels

265/35ZR18 Bridgestone S03s

Tein FLEX Coilovers

Tein EDFC Controller

AP Racing 6 Pot Calipers

Brand new 330mm DBA Rotors w/ aluminium hats

Ferrodo DS2500 Front (Road)

Ferrodo DS3000 Front (Track)

Ferrodo DS2500 Rear (Road & Track)

BF Goodrich Braided Lines

Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid

Recaro SR-3 Drivers & Passenger Seats

Genuine Series 3 Xenon Headlights

Brand New Nissan Under-Bonnet Pad

NISMO Bonnet Lip

NISMO Rear Wing Ornaments

N1 Front Bumper Vents

GTR_2.jpg

IMG_1112.jpg

IMG_1080.jpg

If you have any questions about the car please feel free to contact me on 0414 99 53 91

As for asking price i'm not sure what this car is exactly worth given all the work..

I'm in Sydney btw

I just saw the rules, i'd be looking somewhere in the 40's...

Edited by kabab
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162621-r33-gtr-1997-vspec/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Kabab,

I normally dont post in for sale threads like this, but I had to....

Man, that is one awesome machine - best, tidiest GTR Ive seen for a long long time

No doubt the new owner wont have to spend a cent on it, everythings been done that needs to be!!!

As for price - obviously its insured? Maybe similar price to the insured value?

Oh, as for my buying it, the mrs would...well....dont go there :)

Sweet ride once again mate,

Chris

Kabab,

I normally dont post in for sale threads like this, but I had to....

Man, that is one awesome machine - best, tidiest GTR Ive seen for a long long time

No doubt the new owner wont have to spend a cent on it, everythings been done that needs to be!!!

As for price - obviously its insured? Maybe similar price to the insured value?

Oh, as for my buying it, the mrs would...well....dont go there :)

Sweet ride once again mate,

Chris

Actually the cams need to go in its got stock cams atm.. I've got the poncams in the garage those alone will add about 40kw and give more mid range... Its fairly cheap to drop them in as well..

Its all ready for NOS to i have the bottle in the garage as well :happy:

Its insured for about 50k

Forget the misses :D

More pic's

IMG_1114.jpg

GTR.jpg

Edited by kabab

ahhh Andrews old car....

I have seen this car in the flesh a few times and I can say it is one of THE cleanest 33 GTRs out there..

Andrew was a very anal....owner :) and im sure you were as well :P

Being a 32 and 34 follower I wouldnt normally consider a 33 but for this car I would make an exception :glare:

Goodluck with the sale, im sure the new owner wont be dissappointed

i drove 600km today - all the way to canberra and back with a BIG fat deposit to put on another car.

to cut a long story short - walked away very dissapointed.

so im back to square 1 - shopping AGAIN! - where in sydney are you located as id love to come and see your car?

Edited by 350z

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...