Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just bought a second hand gtr intercooler for my r31 and im looking for someone to install it for me, now i was thinking that an exhaust place might be the way to go cause they would have all the pipeing needed but then again im only new to the performance world and really dont know anything, so if someone could recomend a shop in brisbane where i can take it would be very much apprectiated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16281-advise-on-shop-to-get-fmi-installed/
Share on other sites

dude go see ashley at APC in brisbane.... he works there does very good work and may do it on the side for a very good price..... failing that go see darren ar mazfix he should be able to look into it for you...... hope that helps you out....

depending on what you want to plumb your cooler up with i say do it yourself.

I have done mine and several other people's coolers now with awesome results.

Have done 1 R32 GTST 1 R33 GTST 1 GTX Familia 1 ET Turbo ....

Usually works out cheaper.

So i say do it yourself. Work out the bends you need.. and go out and buy them. In my case i go out and buy the alloy bends (at least 3mm wall thickness) after i worked out what i need. Take them home, cut them to size and Prep the pipes for welding by tapering the ends, so when placed next to each other it creates a nice V to weld in.

From there i get a marker and make markings and label the pipes H1, H2, H3 (H for Hot pipe.. before the cooler and C1, C2, C3 for Cold Pipe).

Then ring up a mobile Welding service that can do alloy and get them to come out and do it all for you.

When (if) you cut holes to allow for the pipes (not the chasis or rales etc. obviously) you can use a proper hole saw if you got on or buy one.. or drill holes and join them up with tin snips, then die grind any dags off. Then to tart up the hole and make it look factors get a length of rubber vaccum hose and cut a straight slit down the length of it. Put glue in the slit and press itonto the hole so it acts like rubber edging. Trail it round the diameter of the hole and cut it off when you reach where you started.

Alloy polishes up Really well, is very light weight and looks extremely neat.

There is also issue's with mounting brackets for the cooler too but they are easy, just make sure you have the cooler mounted TOP and Bottom to make it stable.

BUT then again.. i do everything DIY because i like the feeling of finishing something and knowing i did it myself.. and you learn alot.

I can help you through the process if you wish.

and i didn't even do metal work at school. You dont have to be good under the bonnet to do it.

Usually save a few hundred too :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
×
×
  • Create New...