Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Series 1 has ceramic impellers = slightly slower spool up but can take higher boost.

Series 2 has plastic impellers = slightly faster spool up but cannot take as high boost.

Which is better?....How long is a piece of string? Decide what your objectives are, then work how you are going to get there.

Guest Yoda
:P why dont u get an aftermarket turbo? If you 'trashed' your series II, i assume its from running too high boost for it, so y not get something like an HKS GT2540 (what i got). it goes well, plenty of puff, garett guts (steel turbine, and ball bearings). stronger than ceramic or plastic...
Guest Yoda

kaze

uh, will dyno in two weeks when i get to perth. so not sure about output at moment. engine-wise i got: aforementioned turbo, hks blowoff, intercooler (aftermarket), 3.5" exhaust, apexi f'manage, forged pistons, metal head gasket (wont effect output), uh, thats about it i think. oh fuel pump. got other mods, but non engine stuff, like suspension, gtr wing (dont call me gay) wheels etc

Guest Yoda

yeah. sounds good. mine is internal wastegate, but biggest they make (i believe.) after that is the externals. friend of mine, who posts here, has one. hasnt fitted it yet. only thing i worried about is lag. i need a new computer to get most out of my current turbo. cuts in hard and late. like really hard. if i boot it in first or second, the turbo kicks in and the wheels spin. not chirp, spin. :P i getting camber adjusted next mechanic visit which should help. got 255's so cant fit anymore rubber under guards...

How much boost will the stock series 1 turbo take? Im running 12psi tuned with a haltech E6K ecu, FMIC, 3" exhaust ect..

What turbo would you guys recommend for standard internals and also what would you recommend for the rb25 with forgies ect ?

Guest Yoda

came with the car. :P think its 480 hp rated? i'll have to check again. jeff/lumpy at c-red could tell u better. its pretty much a bolt on. i have custom dump pipe made, and got high flow cat, and a/m catback, but u should already have the exhaust by the sound of it. wanna buy my turbo, and i'll upgrade? :D

why don't u hi-flow your thrashed stock SII turbo rather than buying a new turbo with the same possibility of thrashing it again?

if u do NEED a new turbo, based on the info provided by surreal i would say SI as ceramic impellers and can take higher boost before sh1tting itself

Waz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...