Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi. I have heard of some tinkering with the crank angle sensor and advancing their timing to get a a bit more power.

I've never had the privilege of doing this myself and just wanted to know what the affects would be on doing so with the stocko computer, power, torque, economy, running quality etc.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163026-advancing-timing/
Share on other sites

Retarding the ex timing after mods ie. turbo, hi-flowing exhaust etc can give noticeable gains in all the categories mentioned by you. Advancing ex timing will make less power, torque, response etc. but also make the motor less prone to detonation. If your car is stock it's not worth touching full stop, if your car is modified an adjustable cam gear and tune is a far better idea than DIY CAS adjustment and hope for the best.

Retarding the ex timing after mods ie. turbo, hi-flowing exhaust etc can give noticeable gains in all the categories mentioned by you. Advancing ex timing will make less power, torque, response etc. but also make the motor less prone to detonation.

that's weird cause in the missus pulsar i advanced the timing from 15 degrees to 19 degrees and it went much better. the problem with retarding the timing is that by the time the fuel has finished burning it may be past TDC. as the fuel burnst it expands, so by advancing the timing you have more fuel burnt by TDC. this however means that the pressure inside the chamber is higher, so the temp is higher (as well as a higher temp from more fuel being burnt). then when it next puts fuel in the chamber temp is higher, so it is closer to pre ignition.

if you retard the timing less fuel gets burnt under high pressure, so there is less heat. while the fuel is unburnt it keeps the chamber cool.

i've done it. advanced it about 5/6 degrees. went much better. i just took it to the point of pinging, then came back a touch. helps build revs faster. you just have to make sure you run the best fuel you can, and always run that fuel.

How can you tell how many degrees your dialing in?

Retarding the ex timing after mods ie. turbo, hi-flowing exhaust etc can give noticeable gains in all the categories mentioned by you. Advancing ex timing will make less power, torque, response etc. but also make the motor less prone to detonation. If your car is stock it's not worth touching full stop, if your car is modified an adjustable cam gear and tune is a far better idea than DIY CAS adjustment and hope for the best.

Don't you mean more power and more prone to detonation etc etc?

most of the people out there that say that 200rwkw from a stock ecu/turbo rb25 are probably running stock timing. there are also other things you can do to get more power, but i can't tell you, otherwise i'd have to kill you.

hahaha is that so? You can't kill the unkillable cos i'm invincible.....I think.

that's weird cause in the missus pulsar i advanced the timing from 15 degrees to 19 degrees and it went much better. the problem with retarding the timing is that by the time the fuel has finished burning it may be past TDC. as the fuel burnst it expands, so by advancing the timing you have more fuel burnt by TDC. this however means that the pressure inside the chamber is higher, so the temp is higher (as well as a higher temp from more fuel being burnt). then when it next puts fuel in the chamber temp is higher, so it is closer to pre ignition.

if you retard the timing less fuel gets burnt under high pressure, so there is less heat. while the fuel is unburnt it keeps the chamber cool.

Whats TDC?

Shouldn't it be that when its running leaner it runs hotter?

Don't you mean more power and more prone to detonation etc etc?

Nope, you guys got it the wrong way around.

Have a read of previous threads on retarding exhaust cam. Plenty of information about it and you don't even have to start a new thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...stable+cam+gear

Retarding the ex timing after mods ie. turbo, hi-flowing exhaust etc can give noticeable gains in all the categories mentioned by you. Advancing ex timing will make less power, torque, response etc. but also make the motor less prone to detonation. If your car is stock it's not worth touching full stop, if your car is modified an adjustable cam gear and tune is a far better idea than DIY CAS adjustment and hope for the best.

Wouldn't advancing the cam give you more torque and quicker spool time? As advancing the cam allows the valves to stay open longer, hence more fuel and air can get into the combustion chamber, and also, it allows exhaust gases more time to escape from the cylinder, leading to better breathing abilities, hence more power and less heat generation?

Edited by Marco-R34GTT

Advancing the the ex cam makes the valves open earlier, not stay open longer because the duration the valves are open is dependent on the profile of the cam and that does not change.

A quote from somewhere:

'Where the turbo engine will gain most from cam gears is by retarding the exhaust cam shaft. Normally manafactures like to advance the cam more than optimum for peak power because their highly restictive exhaust manifolds and systems can force hot gases back into the cylinder, promoting detonation.

Start retarding the exhaust cam a couple degrees at a time and watch the power climb, particularly if the engine has a larger exhaust housing on the turbo or an extremely low-restriction exhaust system.'

Funny, in the VL, retarding the cam one tooth and 8 degrees made a massive difference for power when included with even minor mods. About 92kw stock at the wheels, with K&N air filter, twin hyclones, performance extractors, 2.5 exhaust/hi flow cat and an ecu remap, power jumped to an unbelievable 128kw at the wheels. Nothing amazing for Skylines but it made a world of difference for the VL, completely different car to drive... It looks here as if the opposite is true...

Adjusting cam timing = off topic.

Adjusting Ignition timing = ON topic.

Thanks cubes :)

Ok so just to clarify if I'm correct, Looking the engine from the front and turning the CAS:

Advance =anticlockwise

Retard =clockwise

And only adjust the timing while the car is running?

After adjustment put it under load in 5th and check it doesn't ping?

If I'm correct only advance it about 4-5 degrees. Should that be a safe amount running BP Ultimate fuel?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...