Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i have some questions maybe someone could answer!

1- how do i check if i have a fuel pressure regulator?

2- how do i teel if my hicas is locked?

3- were do i get ecu chipped?

also i am putting rb25t onto my rb20det, to get close to 200rwkw should i get ecu chipped, fuel pressure regulator (if i dont already), cam gears?

also.... prices on chipped ecu, price on fuel pressure regulator , cam gears. and were to get cam gears at good price and were to get fuel pressure regulator.

cheers adrian...

Edited by rad33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163499-some-questions-and-help/
Share on other sites

after market fpr can be easily spotted. Sits on the end of the fuel rail usually..are u still running the std fuel pump? If so get that replaced before the FPR (which u wont need for a while yet.) Something like a Bosch 040

Hicas, just look under the rear of your car. It should have a steering rack bolted to the diff. If it does, look at the boot rubbers to see if they have been fiddled with. If they look new, it probably has brass shims under them, or look under the rear parcel shelf in the boot for a little black box wired to the hicas computer that says Tomei. Otherwise its std.

Ecu chipping..decide on how far u want to push the car in later mods. If u cant see yourself going any further get it chipped, but it will cost to remap the chip again later if u add say a larger turbo. A PFC is a good investment for full tuning the car regardless. Shaun does wonders with tuning them. Cam gears are ok, check the forums, or www.perfectrun.com.au

Edited by Bl4cK32

ok atm i have gtr fuel pump, cooler, e-boost, pod, will have rb25t on soon. then i want to go fuel pressure regulator, ecu chipped and re-mapped then up the boost... oh and bov after that! does anyone know a bov that flutters? i cant find any!!! as in like chi chi chi chi lol?

Who have you found that is able to chip & remap the RB25's ECU? In the long run it may be cheaper & as effective to get a piggyback or stand alone ECU.

:D BOV's don't make the flutter noise...I'm assuming you mean the off boost flutter noise?? that's compressor surge. You can either run no bov or put any adjustable aftermarket one & set it at the tightest valve setting.

ok atm i have gtr fuel pump, cooler, e-boost, pod, will have rb25t on soon. then i want to go fuel pressure regulator, ecu chipped and re-mapped then up the boost... oh and bov after that! does anyone know a bov that flutters? i cant find any!!! as in like chi chi chi chi lol?

You probably wont need to get a fpr as yet. I wouldnt trust a 2nd hand gtr pump either...

What are the future plans for the car in terms of power? I pfc is a real good investment. Speak to your tuner or shaun at least and he can put u on a good path

Dont bother with a bov, u will get defected. A pod filter if u must have a woosh sound.

i basically want to get 200-220rwkw! and maybe 12 months later get 250-300 but i really want 220!!! what do u think i should do? whats wrong with gtr fuel pumps? i now mine is very loud hahaha but yeh wat u think will get me to 200-220?

You'll need an adj. fpr for more than 190rwkwish. Depending on dyno.

Grab a nismo one from nengun or a trader on this site. Should see you through to 220-230rwkw.

GTR pumps are old.. BUt they can be good. Just throw a cheap Bosch 040 in it. More than enough. :)

I dont like GTR pumps personally because most of the time u are replacing the std pump because its old, and doesnt flow. I cant see the point of sticking a pump thats just as old on, only for a bit more flow. Id rather rely on a new 040.

At 220 u may be seeing the limits of the afm, so u might need a z32.

For those power goals (more so the future) u may need a pfc, and injectors.

I dont like GTR pumps personally because most of the time u are replacing the std pump because its old, and doesnt flow. I cant see the point of sticking a pump thats just as old on, only for a bit more flow. Id rather rely on a new 040.

At 220 u may be seeing the limits of the afm, so u might need a z32.

For those power goals (more so the future) u may need a pfc, and injectors.

yeppers.... i have a rb20det in my r31 and im gonna put a vg30ballbearing turbo on it, get a remap and run a z32 afm...

jeff from speed lab recon that should c me round 190+kws... i think from memory a remap by jeff is around the 500 mark but could be wrong..

i found my z32 afm from kansai, they were pretty helpful, also try the for sale section here and ns.com... hope that helps a little

thanks for all the help guys!! im gonna get the rb25t put on then adj fpr, z32, and bosch 040 and save for a pfc!

so were can i get cheap PFC, ADJ FPR, Z32 and BOSCH 040?

cheers

Edited by rad33

Most import wreckers should hav Z32 AFM on shelf. You might get lucky in the same respect with a PFC...........from what ive been told an RB25DET one can be used on an RB20 with a couple of wires changed around if you cant get an RB20 one. If you want an 040 new, most auto parts places sell em, second hand, shop around the forums FS sections

r 18inch rims legal for a r32? will it pass regency? also i noticed that my intercooler piping goes through the body just next to the pod filter! is this legal? regency booked for the 27th!!! 3 week wait!

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...