Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi mates,

I want to know what is the maximum (safe) power i can get with those ijectors along with fuel and turbo..etc mods i have..RB25DET:

HKS 555cc injectors

walbro 255

stock rail

sard standard reg

greddy t78

HKS 1.2mm metal head gasket

stock internals

pfc

what boost do you suggest to stay in the safe side???

Edited by Light
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163612-hks-555cc-injectors/
Share on other sites

040 is internal

no part no#, do a search

injectors, are injectors, as long as they work

boost no idea, the compressor map determines that

that compressor will dial in a fair amount of airflow

i woudlnt be going near 300rwkw with std internals

it will go bang. can u afford a rebuild

what do mean "injectors are injectors"

dont they have a maximum that at a specific point of boost they will stop being sufficient??

I think so but please correct me if i am wrong

and what is maximum hp/kw stock rb25det internals can hold?

injectors have nothing to do with boost

they can only flow so much, that is 555cc per minute

should get u upto maybe 350rwkw so they are fine

stock internals i wouldnt go past 280

even thats pushing it, depends on what u do and how u drive it

Id stick to around 250rwkw if you would like the engine to last. Regular servicing and not thrashing it to death you should see it to be quite reliable. If you dont get forged rods, pistons and really make use of the power that turbo can make its pointless to have such a large turbo when you could have alot more responsive set up making the same power.

The T78 is a tad oversized for the stock rb25t.

Realistically 250-260rwkw is a nice reliable number but 300rwkw can be done providing its tuned well and the static comp dropped a tad via a thicker headgasket.

Either way.. the T78 is oversized. lag lag lag when you don't really need to have for that power level.

Just look around on the forum and take not what others use, then do a Google for prices.

Look in the traders for sale section and see what specials they offer.

Pistons avg $1300, Rods $800 and about an extra $3000 to do it properly......

Light depending on what you are going to use the car for I would be thinking realistically how much traction can I get at best and will the drive line stand up to the power delivery - let alone the pistons rods and crank . It sounds like a can get a big turbo situation and may end up starting here and spending a fortune by the time you reach the other end of the car mods wise . If you don't have the T78 or the budget to build an 800 Hp capable car I reckon I'd be looking for a turbo that would keep you within at least the practical and affordable limitations of the driveline starting at the fan and ending at the tyres .

For the 250 + RWKW that you can probably get to the ground through sane street rubber a Hi flow or a real GT3071R done right WILL be streets ahead . Night and day .

Your call , cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...