Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok well im new to skylines (owned an s14 and currently a 180) and someone is keen to swap an auto 4 door 34 gtt for my car and some money. Im a bit concerned about the km's. its a 1999 with 150,000 ks or there abouts but is pretty much stock and never run more than stock boost. should i be concerned about such high k's on a 34?

also how are the tiptronic autos. it has the paddle shift. anyone had any experiences with these?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163714-some-r34-questions/
Share on other sites

I absolutely love my tiptronic R34 - the only people who don't like them are ones who haven't driven them :yes:

Never again stall at the lights or stuff up your launch, never miss a gear again, you can change gears in the middle of a corner when hammering through the hills without your hand leaving the wheel, rev out longer in each gear, etc etc.

And I haven't done the valve body upgrade yet, but this makes the gear changes even quicker and harder. Add an uprated stall converter and no manual will come even close to keeping up with you with the same power.

Plus you can drive like a nanna when you want to just putt around in full auto mode. :P

I have had a triptronic and manaul 34. Triptronics are nice, but the shift just didn't really do it for me. I much prefer the manual. If your happy with triptronic buy one, but make sure you don't just take other peoples word for how good they are as it might not suit your driving style.

Tiptronic's good mate! Gets off the line bloody quick too. I was specifically after the tiptronic when hunting for a car.. i do mainly city driving. Now time to get a MV shift kit for it and burn some tread :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...