Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Recently the Skyline has been playing up a bit. The story goes - filled up BP Ultimate at the servo i don't usually fill go to. That afternoon, driving home the engine starts popping, farting and in general being very grumpy, and eventually dies. Try to turn it back on and it fires but only gets up to about 500rpm and dies again. Waited a bit, about 30 minutes, it started perfectly and i drove it home 10km without a hiccup.

Now a few days later i'm trying to get it to repeat the problem, drive 20km to a mate's place without a single bit of hesitation anywhere. Pick up mate, showboat through 1st and 2nd, keep driving up the road and it starts struggling and popping all over the place, eventually dies again. Managed to fire it up 10min later and took my mate home.

From here, things got interesting (this was last night). After waiting 30min i was able to drive for about 5 minutes before it spat the dummy and turned off. From there it was a game of waiting, babying along with hazards on and basically trying to get it home. It took about 3 hours to get it from eastwood to baulkham hills, including probably about 20 attempts to start it (glad i spent up on the battery....).

Today i checked the fuel pump, everything seems fine. It drove OK when i went up to a highway to give it a fang, but then on easy driving on the way back it crapped itself. It seems like it will only do it after the car is 'warm', or after about 20-30min of driving. That is if it hasn't been turned on for an extended period. If it's already warm (just been driven) it's prone to doing it at any time. I drained the fuel too and it doesn't seem like a bad batch from looking at it.

Cliff notes: fuel pump fine, fuel filter fine, car hesitates and turns off constantly when warm.

Any ideas are appreciated guys!

Edited by govich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163799-hesitationturning-off/
Share on other sites

I'm not sure but sounds electrical most random/intermitting problems are. But I've had similar symptoms and speedworks picked up it was my AFM. I've replaced it but its doing it again - (maybe a break somewhere along the circuit or lose pins). Could it be igniter? Best bet is to have it on a dyno to try and simulate problem with fuel pressure gauge, scope on your ignition, or a scanner to read engine faults.

Good luck mines giving me a headache although I've resoldered the pins on my old AFM and it seems to be fine (so far....)

Hey guys i had the exact problem with mine

i had no injector signal, sourced it out to be a faulty cam angle sensor, this could be your problem, get the mechanics to do a test on all signal faults and hopefully you should find the problem

how old is your fuel filter???

Could be a piece of shit in the tank that is every now and again stopping flow.....

Got most of the fuel out of the tank and it looks fine. Fuel filter is about 5000km max old (changed it myself) and is fine. I can blow through it.

Currently thinking the fuel pump's had it after 13 years of service, my recent upgrade to >200rwkW and thrashing at eastern creek drags. Bosch 040 is going in very soon.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

Cheers Cubes. Just found this:

Engine cuts-out with tachometer dropping to zero. Attempting to restart the car immediately is futile, with no spark. After a wait of 5 seconds to 20 minutes the car can be restarted. However, once the failure has occurred it will repeat unpredictably & increasingly repeatedly.

on this site.

Couldn't have described it better myself. I guess it would apply to Skylines too. Looks like i have to hunt down a second hand CAS.

An alternative failure can be the Crank Angle Sensor,
Edited by govich

Just for closure, the problem ended up being a stuffed AFM. One new AFM later and it's purring again.

Govich I was just wondering, did your "engine overheat light" come on during these hicups trying to limp home? The reason I ask is mine did exactly the same as yours today after not being started for about 6-months (Doing a couple of Mods) but made a "POP" noise before the hesitation started. I was only about 10mins from home but it feel hot when I felt the engine around 45mins after I got home. But it will still start but wont idle.

Reckon I could have the same prob????

Govich I was just wondering, did your "engine overheat light" come on during these hicups trying to limp home? The reason I ask is mine did exactly the same as yours today after not being started for about 6-months (Doing a couple of Mods) but made a "POP" noise before the hesitation started. I was only about 10mins from home but it feel hot when I felt the engine around 45mins after I got home. But it will still start but wont idle.

Reckon I could have the same prob????

Nope, no warning lights for me. Doesn't really sound like the same problem unfortunately.

mad082, not entirely sure what the problem was with the actual AFM, just know that the car works fine after it was replaced. Might open it later but i cant see myself being bothered..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...