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If all you want is straight power at the wheels.I don't know what 300rwkw is in engine power (why not just photoshop the dyno you have now). 500hp is reasonable for $4k or a little over. Based on a sleave bearing rebuild T4/3 (550HP) $1200, supra turbo (latest shape)or walbro fuel pump $200, 550cc Rx7 injectors & a rail to suit $800, Z32 afm $300 and maybe a PFC $1200 or even the S-afcII (yes they do the Z32 afm too) $500.

You could also put aside $1500 and top it off with 100HP nitrous shot, then you only need about 400HP at the motor.

The compormise on the turbo will see the thing spool at 4000rpm. Who cares! I wouldn't. I'd take any turbo that hits full boost at 5500rpm or lower as streetable since if your racing (any kind) the engine revs ought not to drop below 5500rpm anyhow.

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Have you driven a 250rwkw skyline with sock suspesion and wheels? Dude, even with 200rwkw and a decent power band, you will have dramas with stock wheels and suspension. 250rwkw would be an absolute danger to yourself and everyone else on the road.

Not to get in huge arguments over this as I am sure you know more than me... My suspension is not stock, but its nothing great and neither are my tyres ($200 per tyre). I have no troubles driving or launching with around 185rwkw (if not more as its been tuned harder since then) on street or anywhere else and i drive in traffic everyday. Sure 250 is a ~30% increase but i don't see it being massively dangerous to a capable driver. Its more dangerous, yes, but its not "out of control"

Depends who you go to as well.. if u shop wisely and speak to the right people there are bargains to be had. From what i have seen, some shops will quote literally double what other smaller shops will do both in parts and labour, especially some of the big "name" shops around. Depends whether you go new or second hand as well.

Have you ever tried to corner a car (from a stand still) that has no traction?

Yes .. i had bald tyres (10%) on my stock 16" rims, and i drove it both in the wet and not for 6 months yes, around corners too. Sure it was tailhappy, but hey i'm still here. If you take things sensibly and know what to expect it is not dangerous.. but yes, in the wrong hands it can be lethal.

Ok, he's going to go 2nd hand for some things, but i see no problem with that:

Highflow T3/T4 hybrid: $1800

PowerFC, Wolf3D or other equivalent ECU: $1400 (if you shop well)

Fuel pump: $300

Fuel Regulator: $200

Sale of old turbo: -$500

----

= $3200 which leaves $800 for installation and tuning... Ok realistically probably $4500, but that allows a few small extras that will come up.

Well he needs a new clutch in his case.. thats gonna throw his budget.

Sure its a tight budget, but it can be done. Sure some places will charge you $8k for the same work, but hey, if people want to go for that then let them.

stock suspension is more than capable of handling the 250rwkw on the road. Because of course you would be a dick-emmery-head to try to drive through the suburbs with foot flat to the floor. Most of the time there is a poofteenth of the potential power going through my back tyres in the twisty suburbs because I don't fancy killing some kid on his bike as I come round the corner at 90kmh.

true raist.. that is why i said he should lower is expectations a bit more if he doesn't have the cash to spend.. 230-250rwkw for that budget, and the engine should last.. if he isn't well yer, bang, full engine rebuild.. that budget just got massacred..

Sydneykid - Looks to me like hes got a cooler and an exhaust, that aint gonna help snapping rods or cracking pistons at 300rwkws

As far as I know 250rwkws is your "safe limit" on std internals.

230 - 250 is realistic but i still reckon for 4000 its a little optimistic (noone has budgetted in the extras that always seem to crop up half way through a project)

Edit: I stopped at 245rwkws on my std rb25 on the advice of my tuner, I cant imagine the standard 25 rods would last too well at 300rwkws from what i have seen of them. They arent very big...

Edit: I stopped at 245rwkws on my std rb25 on the advice of my tuner, I cant imagine the standard 25 rods would last too well at 300rwkws from what i have seen of them. They arent very big...

And you never know.. if something has snapped once in japan, they could have been replaced and their "stock internals" aren't actually so stock. Those freak cases running close to 300rwkw and go "stock internals" could well have these parts replaced with stronger units and not even know it...

I started to reply to this post yesterday and I binned it now I will add my 2 cents worth

first go to a turbo shop and describe your requirement they should be able to do you a good turbo.then you need all the other stuff. but first talk to a few tuners and discuss with them what they would do get a price then move from there

my site has some information on the path mods take under modifications.

meggala

Ah shit....... soooooooooo many replies :P Thanks everyone :D

I see what you mean about 300kw.......

[q]As far as I know 250rwkws is your "safe limit" on std internals.[/q]

Ok I think this will be a better idea :)

I currently have 179rwkw and have NO problems at all putting that to the ground :D

Thanks to a set of 255 bridgestones :D

I haven't hit a problem with traction yet.......

OK so I will look into modifcations and aim for the 230 -250 mark

There are a shit load of suggestions here so I think I will have to sit down and sort through them slowly...

But the question still remains...... what turbo to buy? For this goal?

Could also go a Garrett GT30, ive had good experiences with this. I dont know how it would compare with 2540 but it is a bit bigger.

Also around 2100. Same flange as standard turbo, only stuff required is turbine housing with wastegate (Or external), oil / water lines, dump pipe, and spacer / studs to push it away from std manifold.

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