Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well I bought mine from nismo japan. can't remember exactly how much but it was nothing too bad. maybe $120 a pair. they look very good too.

if anyone really needs a set I can flog you mine and just buy some more, as my GTR isn't going anywhere for the next month and the rack bushes are just sitting in their packet.

natetune on IDA has them pretty cheap and they have comparison before/after pics of the extra lock they give.

and they come with full installation instructions. nathan was rather helpfull in answering any questiions that i had about them.

>>EXTRA STEERING LOCK TIE ROD SPACERS<<

before

4hkup75.jpg

after

3038rqv.jpg

Hi all. I finished installing my Drift Motorsport steering bushes on my 32. I do notice the difference - the car feels more consistent on sweeping bends for instance. I did have a little trouble fitting them initially as I did not think they would fit in well, but with the pressure of the stirrups pushing on them during installation everything falls in place. Instructions from Drift Motorsport are below for people's future reference. Note that fpr point 4 in the first section I had to buy a new longer bolt (M12 x 1.25) as I couldn't get the stock one any where near close enough to bite.

The two black bushes form a heart shape around the rack, on the drivers side. This shape is slightly at an angle, with the pointy end facing the front of the vehicle.

Here are some steps for installing the black bushes for the drivers side.

1) Remove top bracket and old bush

2) Lift up the rack and place bushes in line with the shape on the rack, with the pointy end facing the front of the car. Don't worry if there is a gap between the two bushes, as the gap will compress once the bracket is bolted down.

3) Place the bracket over the rack with the bushes

4) Place the smallest amount of thread required to hold the bracket in place, on the bolt facing towards the rear of the car (ie: not the bolt near the engine, the other one).

5) Use leverage and compress the bracket down so that the front bolt can grab the threads and tighten it up about 3-5 threads.

6) Tighten the bolts evenly and ensure that the bushes are aligned in their right positions.

Passengers side blue ring

1) Remove bracket and old bush

2) Clean surfaces with a rag

3) Place bush on the rack, with the split facing the rear end, where the two brackets separate

4) Tighten bracket evenly and to specification

5) If there is gap in the blue ring - don't worry as it is designed to have a gap there so that it can compress and clamp down. Factory bushes have this gap as well but it is harder to see as the bush and brackets are black.

Thanks, Ben.

  • 3 weeks later...

so if im correct, the drivers side bushes are two separate black half moon bushes,

and the passenger is a full moon with a gap so u can slide in on, with gap facing the rear of the car...

and there pretty much just clamp over...and bolted down...

correct??

and one more question..are all Nissan import cars the same?

cause i found these bushes on eBay, there pretty cheap..

but list it for 13 S14 S15 R32 R33 R34, so im guessing we all have the same rack then?

apart from the gtr's???

but i looked in the nismo catalogue ..and they should them having different p/n's and different prices too...

so yeah..

wat u guys reckon????

plus anyone heard of D-Project bushes ??is that the same as the Drift Motorsport bushes??

  • 7 months later...

Hello, the Drift Motorsport bushes are the D-Project ones that we sell on eBay as well as other forums as D-Project.

The black bushes can be a bit challenging to fit - because of the metal inlay-rubber setup. They have been designed to be compressed by the mounting strap so that the rack is locked in to place.

I will be doing a complete BLOG of our R32-R34 front 4 door RB30/26 drift car buildup over the next few months with all of the Suspension setups and products that we will be using.

You can find more information here on our D-Project ns.com thread: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...amp;pid=4645329

Pictures of the D-Project Bushes:

dprojectlogo.jpg

Steering%20Bushes%201-small.JPG

Steering%20Bushes%203-small.JPG

Total: $85 Delivered

We are currently working on a new CMS / Web Cart system where all installation instructions, info and so forth will be made publically available online.

Please PM your order via SAU or email.

To order simply PM us on SAU on the Drift Motorsport account.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...