Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mild steel cage? Bugger about the side intrusion bars being the way they are...otehrwise i would have almost handed over the cash straight :)

Yeah it is made from mild steel. I know that there is regs on how many bars etc and where they have to be to be Cams approved but what they are I don't know. The car is still out at Jason White (Lambo driver in Targa) workshop who built the cage and the doors etc are still off it so I can't see it being to hard to modify the side intrusion bars. If you are interested let me know what you want changed and I will see what he thinks it will cost and we can negotiate. Ph 0409004259

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahaha @ the speed stuff you do - how is that more dangerous that coming into a corner with a 170 km/h entry sideways and keeping your foot into it while banging the steering on full lock ;)

I have a 4 point rollcage, the top bar is a seperate peice so there is no bends, only two where it bends to the contour of the rear window. It is the approved thickness and has been padded. Made by KSP engineering in Japan.

Yeah they DO NOT pass cams regs but we all race non-speed events. I am sure the rules will change soon and all our jap cages will need removing.....(as ther is now way in hell of them getting approval) i will go see the boys at MEIDIAN motorsport for our new weld in.

The rules already state you cat run them, even for non-speed events. Teh rules say if you run a cage, then it must comply. The loophole at the moment is that it says the Stewards of the meeting may allow you to run. Once they realise they are the ones accepting the liability for letting you run then it will quickly change. There are already some folk (Snr Stewards etc) that are pretty vocal on this front. Its a good thing they are not needed to run the drift days etc...otherwise the change may be happening quicker then some competitors would like.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW, I've aerated oil, and cams snapped. You can figure out the rest 🥲
    • Depending on the hose, sometimes engine out is the easiest option  
    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
×
×
  • Create New...