Jump to content
SAU Community

thermal wrap for exhaust

Jet

By Jet,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

ENTYSU Collaborator

ENTYSU

Posted
Posted

hey bro i will give you good advice ......DONT GET IT ! it may be good after a while but it traps heat and moistier belive it or not and in about 6 months u will have no exhaust left too heat wrap ...seen it alot of the time when i pull cars apart with the heat wrap ....may be good but it kills your exhaust ........

i would get a special paint an insulant paint not sure what its called but it does help .....or even better theres special sh*t u can put on your undercarrige like the heat wrap but works heaps better many ppl wit rotary's yous it .....

ENTYSU Collaborator

ENTYSU

Posted
Posted

...trust me man i did it too my mates car when i started out in the trade of performance and shit 6 months later i pulled the wrap of cause he herd leaking under it and sh*t me there was just a skeliton of the exhaust ..... man we were stunned ..so we tried too claim but they say its only for drag use or some shit .....

Jet Community Regular

Jet

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sh*t. I put it on already.....

should'v read this post firs.t......

but would it help if I spray the exhaust first then wrap it and then spray on the wrapped exhaust again?

the guy told me at the exhaust place to damp the wrap with bit of water and then wrap.

and this wrap is pretty expensive !!! cost me 80 bux for the wrap and the spray

Endorean Proficient

Endorean

Posted
Posted

The stuff from Autobarn and places like that are a cheaper alternative to REAL exhaust tape.

If you want the good stuff, then I'd suggest to visit your local Revolution Racegear supplier, they have the stuff that goes on drag, rally, sprint cars. It's a little dearer, but if you want it, then you'll pay for it.

ENTYSU Collaborator

ENTYSU

Posted
Posted

yeh i reckon dont use the wrap in the first place .... it was a real expensive blunder for me ..... i am now using the paint n under carrage matt .... works much better ......

now come too think of it by spraying it then applying the wrap u could get pass the corosion but under the wrap it gets bloody hot and the paint will most likly peel off then just start that shitty prosses again .....

Lenno Enthusiast

Lenno

Posted
Posted

guys, i went with jet hot coatings to get my dump pipe coated in some sort of ceramic coating inside and out, handles up to about 1000 deg, and they say it retains the heat in the pipe and out the exhaust...cost about $80 plus postage, and you get a free recoat if the product does happen to fail, there number is 1800700468

  • 2 months later...
Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Endorean

The stuff from Autobarn and places like that are a cheaper alternative to REAL exhaust tape.

If you want the good stuff, then I'd suggest to visit your local Revolution Racegear supplier, they have the stuff that goes on drag, rally, sprint cars. It's a little dearer, but if you want it, then you'll pay for it.

sorry to dig up the old thread but... what is "the good stuff"? is DEI good stuff? and with the good stuff is corrosion still a problem?

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...