Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Ideally in the future I would like to upgrade our exhausts (money permitting :))

I have narrowed it to these ones... I would like other peoples opinions on which they would choose and why :)

The first one I am looking at (and is my preferred for some reason :thumbsup:)

The power extreme II from trust.

http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/power-extreme-ii

And the alternative...

The HKS Hi Power Exhaust.

http://www.nengun.com/hks/high-power-exhaust

Being guilty of wanting it all I suppose I am looking for the exhaust that is going to give the best power increase, give the best sounding note and also look the best... eventually I would like to angle the muffler once I have changed my rear bar (is going to require an additional bend) but wildkats would just stay straight I would imagine....

Cheers in advance :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/
Share on other sites

name brand exhaust.. lol, who is going to know if you have a trust/hks exhaust, or some no name brand?

ive got a 'no name brand' exhaust, and i get that many comments that it makes a lovely growling note, people want to know what it is. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048594
Share on other sites

3" straight through with no mufflers and standard nissan ecu (nice and rich).....flame bursts FTW!! :thumbsup:

hahaha seriously for the prices you pay for genuine jap brand systems these days they aren't much more than bolt on systems already here is australia (if you can call them bolt on, I'm yet to see one I'm happy with yet and I've fitted a few of them) or custom jobs for that matter would probably work out more or as much. Where as they REALLY do BOLT ON and I have to admit they have a sound of their own. For eg. an an SR20 always sounds better with a jap brand exhaust, don't know why they just do, ditto for RB's.

As for which one I'd go for I really don't know. The HKS is cheaper but isn't all stainless (which doesn't really matter unless your a show pony) but the Trust wasn't much more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048609
Share on other sites

3" straight through with no mufflers and standard nissan ecu (nice and rich).....flame bursts FTW!! :thumbsup:

hahaha seriously for the prices you pay for genuine jap brand systems these days they aren't much more than bolt on systems already here is australia (if you can call them bolt on, I'm yet to see one I'm happy with yet and I've fitted a few of them) or custom jobs for that matter would probably work out more or as much. Where as they REALLY do BOLT ON and I have to admit they have a sound of their own. For eg. an an SR20 always sounds better with a jap brand exhaust, don't know why they just do, ditto for RB's.

As for which one I'd go for I really don't know. The HKS is cheaper but isn't all stainless (which doesn't really matter unless your a show pony) but the Trust wasn't much more.

Sounds like what my car is running - just an 18" long resonator before the final cannon muffler.

Loud as hell, and heaps of popping on over-run with the standard ECU. It does have that distinctive RB growl, though!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048616
Share on other sites

Sounds like what my car is running - just an 18" long resonator before the final cannon muffler.

Loud as hell, and heaps of popping on over-run with the standard ECU. It does have that distinctive RB growl, though!

Gotta love it, only way an RB should sound :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048620
Share on other sites

my rb sounds like a rotary lol, plenty of people have told me that anyway :thumbsup: soon as its going again im gonna get some sound footage to show ya's :)

ive got a apexi cat back system, though ive chopped out both muffler since and put in a 3.5' hotdog and left the rear cannon off and it sounds stupid loud. jap mufflers definately sound hot compared to cheap china ones, or try magnaflow they are a great brand also if u get the system made here.

my apexi has 3.5' piping and the inside of the cannon goes down to 2.5' which is stupid, but thats obviously how they keep it from being soo loud.

Edited by overpowered
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048628
Share on other sites

I'm also thinking of revising my setup. The car had a custom job done when it got in Aus by previous owner. Think Rob Bliss did it....and its a pretty quiet system, but still has a nice note to it but not good enough for me. From what I can see it is a 3" inlet on the Canon but the resonator is a custom made one for a rotary (thats why I think its so quiet) and a H/F cat. Its going to be tuned a Mercury monday week so see what it makes and go from there, spent soooo much money on it latley, exhaust might have to wait a bit.

Also I think that (from the origional question) the Trust system will be quieter than the HKS. If that helps with the decision.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048639
Share on other sites

I thought the Trust system would have acutally been a little louder... It has a slightly larger diameter pipe... ? :thumbsup:

I guess I am focussed on those 2 due to my R33 having a HKS exhaust on it ( and a trust dump I think ) and it just sounded special... I am trying to relive my past :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048657
Share on other sites

is just which one you prefer. If you are looking for sound Nismo is te go. Looks nismo. LOL!! Its really up to you wat you want, looks? sound? or performance? or best buy?

For me i was looking for nice fit. Mine was a Nismo with a oval outlet which tuck in nicely onto the bumper and nt looking like the ass hanging out of place if you know hat i mean.

Edited by stasis
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048685
Share on other sites

I have the HKS exhaust on my R33 and everyone loves the exhaust note, wouldn't have a clue about the power difference, but it sure sounds nice :thumbsup:

As others have said, it's really down to personal preference and what you are looking for in an exhaust, happy hunting!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048693
Share on other sites

I'm running a custom 3" dump, hi-flow cat and a Fujitsubo 3" cat back. it's quiet as a mouse, which means no unwanted attention from the cops. It doesn't sound that great (more like a stock auto commodore) but it still gets good flow and I noticed an improvement when I went to the dump pipe. A standard R33 fit fine, the shop that installed it said there were no problems fitting it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048732
Share on other sites

The main differance between the Trust and the HKS is the DB rating

Most rear cannon mufflers are louder than the legal 92DB

I looked into these 2 exhausts for my Stagea

Trust was 96 DB and the HKS Silent was 92DB

I was planning on getting the HKS one, but at the time about 6 months ago they where discontinued, but have now reappeared on the Nengun site, so they HKS most be remaking them

I ended up going with a Fujitsbo Legis R due to DB rating approx 82DB

I had a loud cannon with no front resinator on my R33 and get sick of not being able to hear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048810
Share on other sites

^^^Yeah I meant it the other way around, was up too late last night :D

I love a loud exhaust note, but considering what I bought the stagea for it probably would be best to keep my current system as long as its doing its job. Plus living in a town house now no one took to the 180 very well :)

And as for bolt ons dragging on the ground don't bother going any where near x-force systems. I installed one on my 180 and the fit was shocking. Sure it bolted together but was also probably origionally designed on a standard height car (even then it would be too low). I stuffed it within a couple of months. Used another one on a mates R33 and was a much better fit. And had a pretty nice note to it, but still a little low hanging.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164457-pick-an-exhaust/#findComment-3048869
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...