Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

$28k isnt an unreasonable price if you look at how much it costs to mod a skyline - it all adds up.

Matt, correct me if I am wrong, but from you list of mods, you probably would have spent mid to high 30k+?

Its really is so bloody expensive when you acutally add all the costs together - depressing sometimes. Perhaps with the new raws scheme the value of a modded car will start to be appreciated a bit more - heres hoping.

hippy, I'm hurt! I keep my car very clean:(...lol

Steve, you got me thinking mate, so I sat down & did a VERY rough list of the cost to date. I was being fairly conservative with the prices too. To date there is at least 30k put into the car on top of the cost of the car itself. That doesn't include some of the work currently in progress. Sard 550cc injectors for one.

I've spent enough money on cars in the last 10yrs to build Munro's drag 33. And I'm dead serious! Kind of makes sense that my missus has had enough.

yeah steve .. ur car was nice too ... but i wasn't as shocked when i saw ur car as matts ... i couldn't beleive the condition it was in .. as if i was in an autosalon ... there was not a spec of grease to be seen ... plus the tyres i bought from u keep deflating LOL can't keep the pressure i want .. so i can't be bothered pumping them up all the time ... just means a softer ride ehehehe ... but from what u tell me about ur car ... i'd love to have a ride soon ... 300rwkw am i correct :) just make sure u have insurance when u give me a ride :D

the tyres may need to be refitted? They never leaked at all when they were on my car - really sorry about that.:)

Autosalon? Matt, what are you doing! I think its paining me more that you to see you sell:D

Insurance is paid up. hoping to head around there, but a few more weeks till the rest of the parts come from japan - then hopefully around 300.

When(IF) she blow, if not sooner if I get impatient, going 3L - or a blower, not too sure which to do first.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...