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Ok

so i have a problem

Basically, my master and slave cylinder arent doing anything

i cant pull fluid from the bottom with a speed bleeder, but none of the lines are clogged (ran air through everything)

and broke apart the master cylinder to check for bad seals etc etc

im ordering a rebuild kit anyways

Im using an r33 gt25t slave and master,

but i also tried a 260rs master as well.

i have elimnated the loop and its straight from the master to the slave.

any ideas?

pedal isnt kinked either.

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we tried for 5 hours today

beside, if you take the bleed screw off the side, it should damn near pour out, and it wasnt

also i have no speedo or tach.....but thats another problem for another day

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well after about 2 hours

we removed it, pumped it, stuff barely came out

so we broke it apart to see if there was a clogg, or bad orings, and after we put it back together, the fluid came out liek it was supposed to....but put it back on teh car, and nothing

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the thing in the middle that i take off all my cars with that big loop

no....

i never install it

But we DID try it with that installed first, but to cut down on fluid having to pressurize fr bleeding, we took it out of the loop.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164664-im-stumped/#findComment-3051036
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LOL double post

Well anywyas, im going tomorrow to order a master cylinder rebuild kit, anda friend is next day sending a RB20 master cylinder in case.

this thing will be working

if anyone can think of something else please throw it out!

everyone on my end is stumped

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I found you have to open the bleed nipples a fair way aswell, to get good flow.

we took them all the way out also

as well as taking off the main line going from the master cylinder and putting hte speed bleeder(its an air assisted bleeding tool) and it still didnt work.

and as i said, i blew through the lines, adn there was no restriction....its reallllly odd

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i would suggest that you have an air bubble in the top of the system somewhere when it is installed and no matter how much fluid you pump through there it will not escape unless you can find a way to get it so that the bleed nipple is the highest point of the system.

i have had the same problem with several of my italian bikes in the past and it seems to be the only way we could get the rear brakes to work on them at all, and we had to do this by removing the brake caliper from the swing arm and tipping it upside down so the nipple was above the centre line of the master cylinder.

hope this helps in some way?

cheers oxford

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Sounds like a master cyl problem. I read here somewhere that the seals turn inside out

sometimes for no apparent reason.

i was thinking that, thats why i am going to get a rebuild kit.

im just trying to make suyre that im not missing something simple stupid

as far as getting ht ebleed point as high as possible, the one on the side of the master cylinder is as high as it gets, and nothing was comming out.q

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sorry meant to also suggest removing the caliper/s from the mounts and getting them as high as possible too while pumping the pedal with a block between the pads so your pistons don't overtravel and come out, as there may be a spot that is holding air in the caliper?

if you work on an airbase there should be a nice steep load ramp or somethin you maybe able to use so that the front of the car is at the highest point then chock wheels securely, and remove calipers from mount and get them as high as you can and forward of the master cylinder if possible up ramp, pump fluid through manually until you have some thing like pedal feel, then start car and continue process, as the brakes are vacuum assisted they sometimes won't bleed properly until there is vacuum in the system.

good luck

cheers oxford

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fill the master 1/2 way or so and put the compressor onto the top of it and blow it through so it starts feeding to the slave. or u can take the master out and fill it with oil when it is disassembled so its not full of air behind the piston.

mine had same issue and the compressed air sorted it str8 away :bunny:

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