Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so somehow, just seal the top and blow compressed air into it?

shoudl i leave the bleed on the slave open?

yes make a rubber bung or something to seal the top of the master and cut a tiny hole in it and put the air comp gun into it so its sealed and fluid doesnt go flying everywhere. yes leave the bleed open.

dont put much air into it, it only requires enough to force the fluid through the line and get all the air pockets out.

hold the bung on hard to incase it wants to pop off the master :bunny:

good luck

Do not stuff around with 10-15 year old master cylinders and re build kits

You are in Japan

A new master would be less than 8000yen from Nissan new

I bought a new R34 GTT here in Aus for approx $110 AU (approx 9500yen)

k sorry bud i got no suggestions at all then, this is the first jap car i ever had, all previous cars were either old shitfighters or auto's, only real manual i had any dramas with was an SS LX hatchback with a small block chev in it and after stuffing around with clutch blow ups i converted it to a powerglide with a trans-brake so was like a manual anyway.

so the stagea is the first manual car i have had in years.

cheers oxford

A pressure bleed like someone here suggested sounds like a good idea, just thought I'd say that I have seen master cylinders that you have to 'bench bleed'. When they're installed on the booster in the car, the master cylinder is often angled slightly upwards, with the end away from the firewall being higher. This allows an air bubble to become trapped in the master cylinder itself, and what the service manual for my bluebird recommended was to do a 'bench bleed' where you work the master cylinder by hand with it off the car and level on the bench, to get this air bubble out of the end of it. I experienced that problem and a bench bleed got my brakes back; don't know if this applies to clutches but I guess it might.

When I fitted the 26 I bled up the clutch on my own but admittedly it was manual before so fluid was probably trapped. When I did it the first time round when I did the manual conversion I had REAL issues getting fluid to flow through (I'm using an S14 master cylinder) but we had access to compressed air. The workshop I did it at (thanks again guys!!!!!) had a tool that hooked up to one nipple at a time & drew (sucked) the fluid through. Worked a treat & I had the best pedal ever!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...