Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I've just ordered a new 2007 model HKS SSQV for my R33 GTST, just wodering if anyone knows anything about them, or have any ideas on how to fit them, is it the same as the old SSQV, any one used it on ur skyline yet?? any reviews?? any comments r welcome! I know i should've done more research before i buy it but just got excited when i saw it and bought it straight away ;)

Here is a pic!

post-22896-1176655626.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164702-2007-new-model-hks-ssqv/
Share on other sites

Looks pretty much the same as the old HKS SSQV, i've had a new one bought brand new in 2003.

Mine bolted straight onto the original stock bov mount, you'll have to block off your stock bov return pipe.

Unless your running a decent amount of boost it doens't sound the best.

have fun :nyaanyaa:

Can I just clarify something... We GTS25t owners cannot get anything to solve our idle problems if we choose to disconnect the stock recirculating valve and use a vent-to-atmo BOV?

Is it possible to still have the stock one connected, to control idle properly when you decelerate and come to a stop so you dont stall and still have the vent-to-atmo one as a primary?

Hi all

I've just ordered a new 2007 model HKS SSQV for my R33 GTST, just wodering if anyone knows anything about them, or have any ideas on how to fit them, is it the same as the old SSQV, any one used it on ur skyline yet?? any reviews?? any comments r welcome! I know i should've done more research before i buy it but just got excited when i saw it and bought it straight away :P

Here is a pic!

how much mate?

Can I just clarify something... We GTS25t owners cannot get anything to solve our idle problems if we choose to disconnect the stock recirculating valve and use a vent-to-atmo BOV?

Is it possible to still have the stock one connected, to control idle properly when you decelerate and come to a stop so you dont stall and still have the vent-to-atmo one as a primary?

One of my mate told me to get an Apexi AFC (Air Flow Converter), tune it and it will solve the problem, but that costs around $450 which is not cheap! but i will take it to the garage and see what they can do about it, also see how bad the idle problem is! I will let you all know

One of my mate told me to get an Apexi AFC (Air Flow Converter), tune it and it will solve the problem, but that costs around $450 which is not cheap! but i will take it to the garage and see what they can do about it, also see how bad the idle problem is! I will let you all know

Yes, this must be stock ECU related, I am going to buy an Emanage Ultimate sooner or later so I might run the Stockie for now...

Just seems a bitch that they run off these recirculation systems, the older nissans didnt run anything like this. they didnt run anything at all lol.

Can I just clarify something... We GTS25t owners cannot get anything to solve our idle problems if we choose to disconnect the stock recirculating valve and use a vent-to-atmo BOV?

Is it possible to still have the stock one connected, to control idle properly when you decelerate and come to a stop so you dont stall and still have the vent-to-atmo one as a primary?

Yeah a friend of mine has fmic, aftermarket Blow off valve, bit more boost and has a SAFC car runs sweet!!!!

Can I just clarify something... We GTS25t owners cannot get anything to solve our idle problems if we choose to disconnect the stock recirculating valve and use a vent-to-atmo BOV?

Is it possible to still have the stock one connected, to control idle properly when you decelerate and come to a stop so you dont stall and still have the vent-to-atmo one as a primary?

Have you actually tried running an atmospheric venting BOV in place of the stock one? When i bought my car it had a turbosmart atmo BOV on the stock ecu, with the recirculating pipe blocked off with a welsh plug, and it ran without a problem at idle, accelerating, redlining, whatever. Later i bought a stock BOV for it, and there was no difference again, except the sound (i think atmo bovs are a wank anyway).

Make sure the return pipe is sealed up tight and it will work fine.

Hehe for $310 i think ur gonna get owned :)

Yeah i know its abit cheap, but seems like a very good seller with over 10000 ratings but yeah i'm taking my chances, someone's gotta get owned to find out if its the real deal! i will get back to ya when i get it! fingers crossed!!

Have you actually tried running an atmospheric venting BOV in place of the stock one? When i bought my car it had a turbosmart atmo BOV on the stock ecu, with the recirculating pipe blocked off with a welsh plug, and it ran without a problem at idle, accelerating, redlining, whatever. Later i bought a stock BOV for it, and there was no difference again, except the sound (i think atmo bovs are a wank anyway).

Make sure the return pipe is sealed up tight and it will work fine.

if its that easy!! then i will do wat you've done n save me the bucks!! sweeeeet

I was running T/S Vee port stock ECU, FMIC, 10 psi, zorst and no stalling or idle issues. ?

just a bit of pop pop out the zorst on gear changes!

Agreed, TurboSmart Veeport or Type II as they are also called, is the best and probably only atmo BOV I will ever use. In 6 years of using one, I have never had a drama with stalling or rough idle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...