Jump to content
SAU Community

Ebc Will It Bring Boost On Sooner?

dangerous_daveo
 Share

Recommended Posts

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Hi all. Just to kick things off I have spent the last 30mins doing some searching on here in to EBCs (electronic boost controllers). Now with my search I found some stuff that confirmed what I already knew. But not a direct answer to the following question. So if its out there, feel free to do the search and post the link to that topic. But I couldnt find it.

Anyway question.

Will an EBC bring boost on quicker than say a good quality bleed valve. Engine is an RB20, stock turbo, 11-12psi with the bleed valve. R34 sidemount intercooler. And dump pipe back exaust (ie stock dump pipe). Its also got a dr drift chip.

The bleed valve I have atm holds 11-12psi pretty good (12psi on a cool night) doesnt spike, is fairly smooth etc. So from what I found out the EBCs work well and solving that, if thats a problem. Which it isnt so I cant justify the cost on that.

But if boost can be brought on sooner, say 500rpm sooner then I could see it being worth the money.

Just to add to the above my mate has an older hks one that he is willing to sell me. Not 100% sure of the model, but its a bit old.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164827-ebc-will-it-bring-boost-on-sooner/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the only time it would bring it on earlier was if your gate was leaking or opening too early

ie: if the gate was opening say when it started 3-4psi even though the spring is say 7psi

it could being to open prematurely. with the bleed valve it just limits the signal to the actuator

an ebc can block the signal completely until target boost is reached and then show the signal to the actuator

or it can slowly bleed pressure to it progressively from say 9psi so that wont spike its ass off

in your case, it wont do anything most likely

but there are some advtanges to a good quality EBC

- digital readout, no need for a guage

- overboost protection, so if something changes it wont just ramp to whatever the engine feels like (except for human error with wastegate signal)

- corrected boost control (during summer and winter it shoud always be say 11psi exactly and not spike to 12.5 when its colder nights like a bleed valve would)

you dont have to pay billions for an ebc

i was against paying $500+ for an ebc so i got an old school style HKS EVC II, works well and does everything i need, set and forget

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted

EBC's do not bring boost on earlier, they just hold boost at your desired better without dropping and rising boost levels. It results in more consistent power and makes it easier on the tuner.

If your having troubles with building boost, it could be something to with wastegate actuator. Older ones start to loose their tension after years of work. A Good replacement would be the HKS adjustable wastegate actuator.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replys. I should have pointed out its building boost ok. Just if it could be a bit better it would be nice.

PaulR33, i think that HKS EVC II is exactly what my mate has, it rings a bell.

Oblivion Grand Master

Oblivion

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey dave, just remembered what Sam (Dr D) said when i was getting mine tuned, he said it wouldnt make any difference having an ebc, cause i have one sitting at home i didnt put on. the thing that will though is your dump pipe i reckon.

though ebc's look mad as.

Edited by Oblivion
RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

If you run one of the jaycar autospeed electronic boost controllers, yes you could bring boost on sooner, as that system uses the solenoid directly inline with the wastegate actuator, instead of just bleeding boost off it controls the boost getting to the actuator. If you keep the solenoid 100% closed until you have the boost it will help eliminate wastegate creep that is typical of some other systems as no pressure is getting to the actuator.

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted (edited)

The blitz dual solenoid progressively builds boost as you desire... if you up the gain from something like 5 to 10 you'll see that it builds boost alot quicker, up it once again and you run the risk of overshooting your target boost... but it builds fast if you like that sorta thing.

Edited by Howie
dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, so the answer to the question is no it doesnt bring boost on earlier. Its a stock turbo, its goes from 0-11psi pretty quickly.

So without starting a new topic. Given the mods I have, and the little money I want to spend (better brakes, and semi slicks will be money better spent to get going faster...) what would be the best bang for buck to bring boost on a bit sooner.

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted

Dump pipe for sure.

How much is 'little money'. If I had my time again I'd do the suspension first, such a difference and I didn't think it was too expensive (SK group buy).

Response from the standard turbo's generally can't be improved on that much, because they are designed for response. You could try all the little easy things like CAI with multiple intakes etc. But besides that your going to have to look at turbo upgrades and injectors etc. which start to get expensive quickly.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Dump pipe for sure.

How much is 'little money'. If I had my time again I'd do the suspension first, such a difference and I didn't think it was too expensive (SK group buy).

Response from the standard turbo's generally can't be improved on that much, because they are designed for response. You could try all the little easy things like CAI with multiple intakes etc. But besides that your going to have to look at turbo upgrades and injectors etc. which start to get expensive quickly.

Yeah, everything else is done other than engine stuff really. Already got SK suspension gear on there etc. I might do the dump and leave it at that.

I'll also see what my mates going to charge me for the ebc. If its $100 or so its probably worth it.

and avcrs ask for your windows to be broken for a smash and grab :blink:

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted
half the price 10 times uglier and doesnt do as many near cool things the avcr does lol

Really though, what else do you want it to do other than control boost correctly..?

Kerrist I don't even have an lcd display on my blitz twin-sbc, but it controls boost nicely and does its job well. Better than wasting money on something that is a set and forget, as well as a smash and grab target to whit. :blink:

Probably want to get a decent dump / front and attendant exhaust.. that will make the most difference at the stage you are at.

wasnt me Collaborator

wasnt me

Posted
Posted
Really though, what else do you want it to do other than control boost correctly..?

Kerrist I don't even have an lcd display on my blitz twin-sbc, but it controls boost nicely and does its job well. Better than wasting money on something that is a set and forget, as well as a smash and grab target to whit. :blink:

agreed i have the blitz twin-sbc awesome boost controllers, and the solenoid looks the part under the hood :banana:

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Yeah I've got the Hks evc III, it's a set and forget, and like Paul said, boost is stable.

Plus you can get old school stuff for less $$$ and it does exactly the same job. Only thing you can't buy is the cello wrapper and the wank factor [pretty blue screens that attract crackheads like roadkill attracts flies].

sinistaGTR Grand Master

sinistaGTR

Posted
Posted

mine is in my centre console hidden, i just love the ability to program boost per gear, revs how ever you choose, i find that if im running say 15 psi in first my car is useless in first but program it as you please and it works a treat. for cars running say upto 230kw a basic evc will be fine, just more power traction is harder to control if your running heaps of boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...