Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks for the responses guys, i think i can rule out the 33 and the m3....

link got me thinking- what about the jz powered cars? supra?

anyways, looks like i got some test driving to do!

i used to have a supra, but dont waste your time on a non turbo one. go the tt for sure if thats want u want. id take my old supra over my gtr any day mate. but make sure that u get at least a 95 model and the upgrade the front and rear head lamps to the us spec clear glass shit. much better look imo

TT supra. decent powered s15. 34gtt. IMO...

32gtr would be great.. however unless you are absolutly obsessed with them, then changing from a 32 gtst to the 32gtr wouldnt be a completely different change in a sense. (obviously its different but.. yeah, u know), for the amount your spending i would get a nice newer car. just a few options that im sure you prob seen.

33gtr

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...;State=Victoria

yellow 34

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...;State=Victoria

clean 32gtr

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...=0&R=554417

white 34

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...=0&R=373308

Supra..yep!

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...;State=Victoria

Edited by jake33
R34 GT-T all the way! Definately my favourite of all the cars I've driven.

My motto is: always buy the newest car out of your options list. It will last you longer, be more practical, and be cheaper to maintain.

The only reason why id prefer the 32gtr over the 34gtt is because i would be spending upwards of 25k, the 32 its is going to be fairly well-modded compared to the 34 which will probably only have a few mods ie - exhaust, fmic, pod.

Obviously its more cost beneficial to have bought a car with mods done than without and having to buy and get them installed yourself...

So yeah, still unsure, im going to set-up a few test drives and see what feels best. Then if i still like both the 32 and 34 equally, ill just wait till i find a really good example of either one, then buy it! :P

personally i'd pick the 33 gtr but considering u dont like the 33's shape and the 32 is too old (and smelly)..uve been in it for 5 damn long years, why would u want to go back in it.. GTR or not :laughing-smiley-014:

34 GTT is the one imo

new car ftw!

personally i'd pick the 33 gtr but considering u dont like the 33's shape and the 32 is too old (and smelly)..uve been in it for 5 damn long years, why would u want to go back in it.. GTR or not :laughing-smiley-014:

34 GTT is the one imo

new car ftw!

sorry just clarifying ive had my license for 5 years but only had my 32 for 1 and a half

ive owned all the cars mentioned other than the m3.

in my opinion if your after pure performance/daily driver I would go the R33 gtr..they have a smoother power delivery than the 32r, look much newer inside, quicker responding altessa, more room, stiffer chassis, brembo brakes, better seats, airbag/s...

R34 is nice, feels refined, nice and smooth....but you will want a gtr (I did).

I preferred my s15 (jap spec) over the 34.. looked better IMO and went harder/handled better than the gtt (although not a fan of the sr20 sound).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...