Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

u'll probably find that its not the input shaft bearing but actually the counter-shaft centre bearing. did u get bits of bearing race stuck to your drain plug?? been through this 3 times now with 3 different boxes. got it down to 45min changing the box lol. ended up getting heavy duty bearings from CBC bearings. let me know if u want someone to replace the bearings for u i can get it done pretty cheap with the heavy duty bearings.

I also have an RB20det box that is on its way out. I bought it in so called "excellent condition" I got shafted! as soon as it went in i could tell it was not right.

It makes a clutter type noise in 1st 2nd and sometimes 3rd epically changing down gears under compression braking. I have rung a few places and got really vague quotes for "about 1200 mate..."

I would like to get it rebuilt but what sort of price is reasonable? and exactly what gets replaced?

Cheers

$1200 is a reasonable price for an un-inspected box.

They will generally replace all the bearings. Some workshops won't do all of them...just the ones that are worn.

They will replace any other parts which may be worn. For any of your regular gearbox shops they will charge you around $1200 for a basic rebuild which will cover you for labour, bearings and most of the time one or two synchro rings and that's about it. Any more damage inside and the bill goes up most often.

I do the RB25 and RB26 boxes starting from $800 for bearings, seals and labour to strip/reassemble. This doesn't include any synchros or gears. I generally stay away from rebuilding RB20 boxes as they are much weaker than their counterparts. I recommend the cryo treatment if you want to stay with the 20 box as it will increase it's strength by around 2-3 times.

$1200 is a reasonable price for an un-inspected box.

They will generally replace all the bearings. Some workshops won't do all of them...just the ones that are worn.

They will replace any other parts which may be worn. For any of your regular gearbox shops they will charge you around $1200 for a basic rebuild which will cover you for labour, bearings and most of the time one or two synchro rings and that's about it. Any more damage inside and the bill goes up most often.

I do the RB25 and RB26 boxes starting from $800 for bearings, seals and labour to strip/reassemble. This doesn't include any synchros or gears. I generally stay away from rebuilding RB20 boxes as they are much weaker than their counterparts. I recommend the cryo treatment if you want to stay with the 20 box as it will increase it's strength by around 2-3 times.

Thanks for the reply, that was exactly what I needed to know ;) Cheers!

3lit3 - would u happen to know what the (aftermarket) part numbers are for bearings for a rb25 box? I want to slap a set of bearings in mine, and was wondering cost of bearings from cbc or the like...

i used to work in a nissan dealership and we used to just take the bearings down to CBC and they match em up on the spot.

ps we never charged for genuine parts, so it wasnt monkey business.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am well aware as I did rant at him to buy a MX5, buy the 2.5 before he DIY'ed it, etc as well as do things to the holden. He will obtain a ND. It's the best of both worlds. They look great in person, definitely the best looking one. Just a matter of time now.
    • Remember this is the same person who said he’d never own an nc 
    • ouch! how is the car now?I had sold my gtr but have been looking into some on trademe and a 260RS but I wouldnt be keen on any repairs needed on them
    • This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.
    • Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height!   One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.
×
×
  • Create New...