Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK ive been talking about this in a thread in the forced induction but it seems different states have different things that are legall etc... SO

Apart from the standered BOV can you legally change it to anything else? I was told Plumb back ones are legal that true?

Please clear this up for me, what is south australias stance on them...?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165074-bov/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

When I spoke to regency Vehicle standards they said you can't run an aftermarket bov regardless if its plumb back or not, he also said I couldn't modify the return pipe or modify the afm to turbo pipe.

BUT.. ring another day and I probably would have received a different response.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165074-bov/#findComment-3058226
Share on other sites

When I spoke to regency Vehicle standards they said you can't run an aftermarket bov regardless if its plumb back or not, he also said I couldn't modify the return pipe or modify the afm to turbo pipe.

BUT.. ring another day and I probably would have received a different response.

so were stuck wid the standered BOV?

thanks, shame i dont live in other states lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165074-bov/#findComment-3058246
Share on other sites

Looks like it.

For myself.. No bov, thin sheet metal plate blocking it off. All looks standard. 4" afm to turbo pipe.

Large afm to turbo pipe reduces the ever so slight drivability/stall issues you get with no bov.

You get better next gear boost response when not running a bov. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165074-bov/#findComment-3058268
Share on other sites

Looks like it.

For myself.. No bov, thin sheet metal plate blocking it off. All looks standard. 4" afm to turbo pipe.

Large afm to turbo pipe reduces the ever so slight drivability/stall issues you get with no bov.

You get better next gear boost response when not running a bov. :P

doesnt having no BOV ruin ur turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165074-bov/#findComment-3058273
Share on other sites

lol yes the bov manufactures tell you it hurts the turbo. lol

With the stock afm to turbo pipe the dose sound is fairly quietish but with a metal afm to turbo pipe it is quite a bit louder. :P

Have a read of.... Simon from Nispro.

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1457/article.html

Also Quiz Shaun @ Boostworx if your worried.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165074-bov/#findComment-3058309
Share on other sites

whats all this bulls**t about no bov ruining your turbo lol??

that flutter noise is just air getting chopped up by the blades yeah?

cubes gives good advise, however it does cause stall/drivablity issues, so larger afm is a great idea. which i need to do soon myself!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165074-bov/#findComment-3059062
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...