Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yes, that's what i meant. Airflow is 1080-1100 when on idle.

If i rev it does go back to the same level.

Is that a bit high?

I wonder if I've soldered the wires incorecctly but i thought it wouldn't work at all if i did that.

It's a series II so i had to share the 2 ground signals (from memory)

Also, I've been looking around at maybe getting a replacement or still hanging on to the fact that this one is OK and just set up wrong.

I saw a unit on the Jap Auctions and looks as if the signal ground (guessing) has it's own 'C' clip that would bolt onto the body for grounding rather than going thru the ECU.

Also, that wire was extra long on the Tomei plug which suggests it should be different and had the length to be wired into the chassis.

Would this change the behaviour of the signal overall?

..and, if peeps are looking at getting one, they are on nengun as a Tomei branded Z32 for $360 delivered.

If i get a replacement, i think i will get that one.

It's so much freeegan hassle to get around this and i don't wanna risk getting another dodge one.

And that is possible as i don't think these other dodge ones were sold to rip people off, just the seller, even reputable sellers, didn't know about this bad batch ???

Anyway, just putting it out there as an option, bit more expensive but only $50 over the cheapest I've seen.

..and, if peeps are looking at getting one, they are on nengun as a Tomei branded Z32 for $360 delivered.

Yer, they're the ones i just got and will be installing within the next few days.

Funnily enough tho, they came in a what looked to be a genuine nissan box :D

Thats correct as its not a genuine Nissan part number - Its a Bosch part number

The Bosch Z32 AFM still has the Nissan (JECS) part # on it (22680 30P00 A36-000 N62) and the Bosch part # is on the box (F00E000202).

Yes, that's what i meant. Airflow is 1080-1100 when on idle.

If i rev it does go back to the same level.

Is that a bit high?

I wonder if I've soldered the wires incorecctly but i thought it wouldn't work at all if i did that.

It's a series II so i had to share the 2 ground signals (from memory)

I had a look at datalogit log I took some time ago.

My Z32 afm on idle see's 1165mv on average. It never sways more than 10mv either way providing I don't touch the steering or pump the brakes. :stupid:

But it is a 3ltr so it 'may' suck a little more on idle.

Yes, I got the dyno done and the replacement Z32 is working fine. Not so happy with the power output though of 200kw non shootout mode. It is a low reading dyno, but I was expecting more power.

At 1.3bar it's making 190kw at 5500rpm, but then it just flatlines the power curve. Even at 1.5 bar it gives slightly better mid range, but the same flattening out of the power curve occurs. The boost does not drop off at all with the AVCR, it holds steady to redline. My tuner thinks it's the justjap intercooler I bought, and suggested that I replace it for a thicker ARC item with low pressure loss. The AVCR Duty cycle is at 40% and holds boost steady. Knock count is at 14 W.O.T. with an AFR of 10.0 from 6000rpm to redline.

What I have is;

Series 1 RB25DET with 1.8mm headgasket. (newly built with 6000km run in)

Standard cams

Apexi pod filter & Z32

Greddy Inlet Manifold

Apexi Cast top mount exhaust manifold

Garrett GT30/40 .63

Tial 38mm external wastegate

Greddy Type R BOV plummed back

Power FC and AVCR

720cc Nismo's.

60x30x76 tube and fin FMIC with 2.5" piping throughout.

3" exhaust from the turbo back.

Should I put money towards an ARC intercooler, or should I install a set of 256/264 hks camshafts next?

Is the 1.8mm headgasket lowering compression so much that it is effecting the amount of boost I have to run to reach my target of 250kw?

Edited by silman

Well Silman, at least the Z32 is sorted

Did you find when you swapped it over and started the engine, it was crap idle and needed an obvious retune, or was it still OK to drive just with more room to move on the verticle axis?

Birnie - is you new AFM working well now? Has it been tuned.

1. Is there any comparison Dodgy vs New with regards to volts at idle?

2. Anyway we can tell a bad one before the tuner has almost completed a tune

I am getting a new one, making sure it doesn't have the Nissan embossing but not sure what else I can do..

Cheers fellas

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...