Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can this be done with the use of a fuel cut defender?

They say that these things run really rich on boost so would the extra boost still run OK ? or will it run lean on anything over the boost cut and ping ??

I dont have the money for a upgraded computer right now and I want to squeeze a bit more performance outta it.. The intercooler is upgraded (supra round core) and so is the turbo (steel rear wheel T3 highflowed with t4 front wheel)

Would it be worth installing the turbo smart fuel cut def? or just waiting for a S-AFC or something?

is anyone using a standard computer on more then 13 PSI boost ?

It is a series 2 engine

Anyone have any idea how much you can get outta a standard computer?!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16529-standard-r33-computer-running-15psi/
Share on other sites

with that turbo setup your stock ECU isn't gonna do you any justice as they map's don't really suit turbo upgrades.

as when boost hits it will be different and stuff. I should put a stock ECU into mine and see what it does ... (i got bigger turb's too but i got chipped ECU with a smooth as curve)

S-AFC might fix it but i'm not sure?

Originally posted by RON-15H

I have a 95skyline stock comp and stock ecu running 14psi with a electronic dual stage boost controller without any probs. i have a front mount and exhuast and air filter

What kind of front mount ???

Anyone else??

Originally posted by YBSLO4

Dude you'll probably find that the factory boost control cut wont allow you to go that high, and with a stock cooler and turbo pushing that kinda psi is asking for it to giveway. The turbo seal on teh exhaust housing on a stock R33 is only rated to 14psi out of the factory, in other words once ya go passed that limit it is passed what its made to withstand for a certain period of time. Ya better off saving ya bucks and keep it on say 10psi max for no with no cooler or turbo and get ya self the stuff ya need to make it safe to run that kinda boost. Go zorst and filter to free up the airflow which itself will give you a slight increase in boost naturally, then turn up to say 10psi with a bleed valve, and then hold out for a cooler and computer/piggy back once thats done to correct the richness and allow you to get the most out of it.

You obviously did not read my post.

The turbo is a steel rear wheel VL turbo with a T4 front wheel.

It has a upgraded intercooler (Supra round core) & CAI setup with K&N

Ive got a boost cut fuel cut defender Turbo smart that I want to install. I just want to know if the standard computers mixtures would still be OK at 15 PSI!!!!

So no one has done mods to their car and kept the standard computer ?!?

So no one has done mods to their car and kept the standard computer ?!?

not many do, for these sorts of reasons

basically no.. its not going to run 15psi without u installing at least some type of electronic management - thats like double the maximum boost the stock ECU is expecting, never mind the different turbo and its different characteristics.

Your cheapest way out is the SAFC $550 fit it yourself and the tune is $50-100, as far as the fuel cut defender goes I havn't got one (at 12psi though) can't say what would happen at 15psi. Best thing to do is put it on a dyno and check what your A/F ratio is now.

i was running 18psi on an aftermarket turbo with an apexi speed cut also i had a variable(homemade)afm signal adjuster which also double as cold start injectors emulator. don't think u can buy one of these, but it was good for 18psi on a gt28 with external wastegate, so yes it can be done, but u need lots of patience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...