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  • 3 weeks later...
As Title R33 series 2..........whole car wrecking........

Complete engine with turbo 53klms on clock (SOLD)

headlights (sold).

SELLING EVERYTHING NOW, PM ME IF I HAVE FORGOTTEN TO ADD TO LIST

SERIES 2 STUFF:

s2 bonnet $400

manual s2 DIFF $400

Front seats $300

complete Back seat $200

Dash speedo / klm etc complete $200

Gaurds $140 each

Doors $200 each

boot lid $150

series 1 boot lid spoiler $75

Taillights $120

Complete airbag set/dash/ 2 airbags/sensors $1500

Complete 5 studd conversion / hubs / rotors / calipers all what u need ...$900

radiator support $200

front bar $300

SERIES 1 STUFF:

R33 series 1 Bar complete $200

R33 series 1 reinforcement $200

R33 series 1 bonnet $200

R33 series 1 headlights $400 pair

R33 front bar blinkers $100 pair (will separate if needed).

Thats all i can think off at moment.

IF NOT ON THE LIST ABOVE LET ME KNOW WHAT U NEED AS CAR IS STILL MOSTLY COMPLETE.

post here or PM me / If u want let pics let us know and i will email them or post here later.

SYDNEY. but willing post / courier.

Trying to send PM but your inbox is full.

Do you still have the box?

Please PM reply

Hey mate would you separate parts on the door?? I'm after the power window controls on the drivers side @ the centre dash surrounding.

Trying to send PM but your inbox is full.

Do you still have the box?

Please PM reply

Hey mate im after a left hand side black splash guard where it sites infront of the wheel and behind the stock little intercooler and it has air vents.., theres 2 peices... 1 underneath and 1 to cover near the wheel.. i duno the name... i gota pic here if you got it, PM me .

dsc00726yv9.th.jpg

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    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
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