Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol dont do that, though it would be hilarious....a better question either would have been....how much boost can i run with 'x' mods, or whats the highest kw the stock injectors can take. your next upgrade is afm and injectors

no i meant 78psi

i say this because PSI is pointless in comparison for this sort of thing. it means absolutely nothing.

PSI is only relevative to the compressor you are using. if he tried to run 14psi on a GT40 then the stock injectors have no hope.

if he tried 14psi on the stock turbocharger then its fine. so 78psi on the stock turbo is probably fine for stock injectors.

it wont flow any useful air past 12psi anyway so the other 66psi is just extra heat and nothing more.

so paulr33... im running 10psi on a GT30R on stock injectors. safe?

depends on the compressor model you are using

the compressor map would give you the true answer to this

but a 30R will flow quiet a lot of air even at 10psi

so you might be on the border line, a dyno plot will give you the answer if you cant find the compressor map info or dont care about the map and reading it

im running a GT3076R with a RB25 turbo's highflowed exhaust side.

84 trim, 0.82 a/r. (i think they the numbers from turbobygarrett.com)

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t

...the correct question is "how much power will stock injectors handle"

jump on some websites of injector makers. they have a calculation applet thing that allows you to put in all your factors and it will rate the injectors for power. rc engineering comes to mind

IF the stock injectors run to 220rwkw as mentioned before, then you can have a t66 turbo on your car, just cap the boost to that power.

get a nismo fuel reg

i would consider changing the pump or hard wire it to 14v (cubes did a howto guide), the wallbro's can be known baddies

what ecu or piggyback are u running? i see no mention of either.

i would suggest stand alone. powerfc is ideal, but pick whatever you like.

either way monitor injector duty and go from there.

stock ecu on those upgrades = bad idea and poor net results

the car will drive like brand new with a complete tune

My local tuner has a few Skylines running around town with 300rwkw with an upgraded fuel pump, rising rate fuel regulator and stock injectors (new turbos and other supporting mods too)... he says when I go to upgrade, I can get 250-260rwkw on a "really safe" tune with a similar setup, but he said the 300 ones aren't running dangerously or anything. This is a tuner that's had several cars feature in HPI (but I don't know how much credibility that magazine gets on here). Because of threads like this, I've been wary, and asked him several times about upgrading the injectors as part of my upgrade plans, and every time he says it isn't needed for my aims (even when I say money isn't a factor in the decision).

paul mate, im running on stock ecu and over the last shit it already seems like a new car...

Im getting hissing and clicking from the injectors tho, me thinks the o-rings have gone on them.

I'll be going Emanage ultimate it seems, as soon as I know for certain someone in adelaide tunes them well.

I would have thought the only real test was an AFR on the dyno?

Any specs on a website will be a guide only.

depending on mods the factory injectors may be fine if they can support a safe AFR at full boost.

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Been a long time since r31 got some love, my brother dropped a shitbox ls1 crapadore in my lap to fix up.  Put a wiper motor in as the flooded one was no longer alive.  got windscreen wipers now. Time to clean respray and install back in the titanic  IMG_0505.mov
    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...